Toilet Roll Holder - Plasterboard

[DerbyBorn]

I think I have made a bad choice of accessory!

With SWMBO I bought a towel rail and toilet roll holder. The toilet roll holder needs to have a small spigot screwed to the wall with two screws at approx 9/16 centres. The chrome holder then fits to theis spigot. Two screws are needed to resist the holder from twisting.

The trouble is that the wall is dab n dob plasterboard. I am thinking that I am going to get into difficulties trying to get a good fixing. Going into the breeze block is possible but as yet I am not sure how far back it is. Even then I need to prevent the plasterboard pulling in and making the fitting loose.

Any ideas? I want a neat job.

[Bob Minchin]

Make a nice decorative wooden plaque with fixing screws wide apart and mount the bog roll holder onto that.

Bob

[Tim W]

Plasterboard is s**te. It's not a big deal just part of the s**te of 21st century life that we have to put up with like being spammed and cold called all day long, like being robbed by your own bank, like being nicked for parking just to fill the town council's coffers. No fixing to plasterboard can be stronger than the plasterboard itself, which is feeble. Sounds like your plasterboard isn't even fixed to the wall behind it. I weep for you. Also I laugh at the idiocy of it all.

Tim W

[Zapp Brannigan]

"the modern world, this dark abyss full of ready meals and Ant & Dec..." Miles Jupp

[The Medway Handyman]

With all the new builds around here I have to fit dozens of the buggers. Next & B&Q both use this system - I'd love to get the designer on site to fit one - the git.

You can get a decent enough fixing. The problem is that 2 holes at such close centres weakens the PB.

If the fitting uses 2 holes to avoid twisting I use the small Rawlplug 'Uno' yellow plugs which use a 5mm masonry bit. These fix to the plasterboard only, but give a very strong fix.

If the twisting isn't an issue I'll use a single brown 'uno' with a 7mm bit - again, very strong fix.

I can't recommend these 'Uno' plugs highly enough, never had a bad fix on any type of wall.

[stuart noble]

"Hollow door fixings" are useful where there isn't enough gap behind the PB for normal PB fixings.

[MuddyMike]

A few years ago in my mothers cottage, I resorted to cutting a 3 inch hole in the plasterboard. Filling the hole right back to the block wall behind, rubbing down, re painting ( I was re-decorating the room anyway) and fixing to the filler. This was to re fix a kitchen towel holder that had repeatedly pulled away from a dab fixed plasterboard wall. It didn't come off again in

4 years.

Mike

[Tim W]

That's good. I might make it my sig. Ta.

[TheOldFellow]

Perhaps, and this is very tentative, you could drill a single large hole right through the plasterboard and well into the block. The hole size can be the maximum that will be hidden by the fitting, I'm guessing

25mm. Then bond with epoxy something that will take the stresses into said hole. Drill the something to take the screws, possibly before epoxying in. The "Something" could be a hardwood dowel, or even a length of steel or ally round if you can drill and tap it.

All my other thoughts involve divorce. It's a lot of trouble for a (deleted)

R.

[TheOldFellow]

Perhaps, and this is very tentative, you could drill a single large hole right through the plasterboard and well into the block. The hole size can be the maximum that will be hidden by the fitting, I'm guessing

25mm. Then bond with epoxy something that will take the stresses into said hole. Drill the something to take the screws, possibly before epoxying in. The "Something" could be a hardwood dowel, or even a length of steel or ally round if you can drill and tap it.

All my other thoughts involve divorce. It's a lot of trouble for a (deleted)

R.

[The Natural Philosopher]

If its dot and dab, make a hole in the board a bit bigger than the screw and somehow get car body filler behind the board. You can use short screws straight into that, or drill right through and use rawlplugs.

Or simply remove a board section, and replace with car body filler 'filling' ..its not hard to reskim and paint.

Another option is to tile that area, then drill and use the tile to spread the load to the board.

Or use a nice section of scrap hardwood board glued to the PB.

Never be afraid to rip out PB and replace/skim/sand/repaint.

[DerbyBorn]

Some good ideas today - however, I have returned the holder and had a refund. I have spotted a few others - all at a higher price which will give a downward loading rather than a torsion. SWMBO is considering a floor standing bog roll holder.

Thanks for your inputs.

[polygonum]

for a more d-i-y appropriate technique, mix some polyurethane glue and suitable filler, squirt through hole into space. Trim and fit accessory.

O - no longer a problem...

Rod

[DerbyBoy]

for a more d-i-y appropriate technique, mix some polyurethane glue and suitable filler, squirt through hole into space. Trim and fit accessory.

O - no longer a problem...

Rod

Looks great. I will try it when I encounter a problem. I did think the design of the holder was tempting fate.

[The Medway Handyman]

All these ideas are great if you have all the time in the world. Doing it for a living is an entirely different kettle of fish.

[Chris J Dixon]

I was just about to suggest something like this:

has the added advantage that it can store 4 rolls, which should meet most requirements ;-)

Chris

[STU]

replying to Tim W, STU wrote: Well, that's helpful! #not

[Bob E.]

replying to STU, Bob E. wrote: He probably did make it his sig. Back in 2011, when he posted it. Your reply is eight years late.

*Try looking at the date on posts!*

[Brian Gaff]

No its not, as you need to quote if you want anyone here to understand what the bleedin hell you is on abart, matey. Brian

[polygonum_on_google]

And eight years is a very, very long time to come to a conclusion about someone's response.