MMm. mirror glue might well work
silcone will work up to a point, but be slightly flexible. Specialised
epoxies work as do some specialised superglues.
Personally I invested in a 6mm diamond core drill and used rawlplugs...
"I guess a rattlesnake ain't risponsible fer bein' a rattlesnake, but ah
puts mah heel on um jess the same if'n I catches him around mah chillun".
Or one of these
I use mine all the time. Put a bit of masking tape where you want to drill the hole. Mark the masking tape and away you go. Tape not only helps you mark the hole but also stops the bit jumping around.
On 01/05/2018 18:00, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
And make sure any wall plug goes right through the tile. Else the
expansion when the screw is fitted can crack the tile. Easier with a
lipless plug; but, if those not to hand, application of craft knife or
side cutters can deliver one - often with [much] blood ;)
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid
On Tue, 1 May 2018 18:06:59 +0100 (GMT+01:00), Jim K
tiles are usually earthenware; soft, porous, easily scored and snapped
and easily drilled IME. Porcelain tiles are fired to a higher
temperature, are vitreous, much less porous or not porous at all,
usually used for floor tiles as they're stronger and hard wearing,
usually need a diamond saw to cut them and more difficult to drill,
requiring some care or they'll break.
Like others have said, drill the tiles with a spear-headed glass/tile
bit and use plugs. Take it slowly, and spray with water from a trigger
spray bottle as you go.
If your holder has a large surface area - ours was a wooden base
probably 3"x 5" or so, and if you can devise some way of holding it
firmly in place for several hours, then silicone sealant will work
If you go this route, use a spacer so there will be a thin pad of silicone
between tile and base. Four bits of matchstick, snip of string, whatever, just
to there's a pad of glue there. .
This allows you to get a wire (or long knife, cutter blade, ...) between base
and tile and remove the holder eventually. If the base is siliconed tight
against the tile, you will have to gnaw it off the wall, as you can't reach the
Also, double-sided sticky foam tape as used by glaziers will work.
I'm currently using something which looks very similar I bought from
Aldi at £9.99.
I've been living the life of a displaced person for two weeks while the
bathroom was being done, I'm £4000 poorer and it looks so nice I don't
want to spoil the tiles if at all possible. The tiler who put in the
bathroom has offered to come back and fit anything I choose.
I haven't had much success with stick on bathroom accessories except
this toilet roll holder. Mine cane with a 3M branded thin foam double
sided sticky pad which covers the total areas of the wall mounting. Make
sure the tile is perfectly clean and don't position over a grout line.
My toilet roll holder has been firmly stuck to a tile since the end of 2015.
If gluing to tiles make sure that the item has a substantial flat
surface to mate to the tile. Consider using thin double sided foam tape
designed for fitting trim to cars.
I've found the follpwing tape to be quite good for other projects
(no association with the seller)
I have cemented on towel rails in the en-suite onto plasterboard.. When
the time came to tile the room I managed tolever off the rails. Ithen
smoothed them down and used Sticks Like Sh*t or something similar and
about 3 years later they are still non the wall (I did try using it to
glue two tile offcute - glazed surfaces together as a trial- and found
it almost impossible to lever them apart)
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