Tile Removal - Is it Possible

Hi all
In out en-suite, the numpties who fitted it out actually tiled around the extractor fan. This means either fitting the same fan each time there is a failure, or doing some re-work to fit another model. I recently fitted an Xpelair centrifugal type jobbie in the downstairs WC which I think is far more effective than the Manrose axial fan in the en-suite. But the Xpelair won't cover the all the untiled area left by the Manrose. So I would need to remove 4 tiles (parts of which have been cut away) and replace with full ones, leaving only the extract hole and cable entry clear.
The question:
How easy is it likely to be to remove 4 tiles and replace without damaging surrounding tiles and to achieve a good level with the new tiles?
TIA
Phil
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
TheScullster wrote:

Not too difficult... rake out some grout round the tiles to come off. Get a bolster behind them and tap it until they come off. Scrape of any excess residual adhesive and then re-tile.
The raking and scraping can be done easily with a multimaster if you have one.
--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Reasonably easy with care.
The first step is to remove the existing grout around the tiles in question where they join with the others. You need to go all the way to the bottom and the adhesive as well, and frankly it's good if you go into the plaster(board) that's good too. This is an excellent reason to purchase a Dremel. A good one. :-)
Starting where the fan is mounted, you can then carefully pry away the tiles. Some people crack them first by tapping them carefully with a hammer and chisel. The thing to be careful about is the underlying surface. If it's plasterboard, then some or all of the cardboard will come away. If you went through that at the first step, then the tear will stop at the join. If the plaster isn't that good, then try to avoid any damage going to beyond the area of the tiles being removed.
You might want to make the surface good afterwards, but it isn't probably worth it. The new adhesive will do that unless you've gone all the way to the wall underneath or something.
The new tiles can be positioned with adhesive, probably using a 3-4mm comb unless they are large format tiles when 5-6 is more typical. You can use a wooden batten across the surrounding tiles and new ones to achieve a good level with the other tiles. If you haven't done much tiling, then a standard rather than fast setting adhesive is better because it gives more open time in case you need to remove the tiles and add or subtract adhesive. Make sure to clean out any grout in the gaps.
The existing grout, even if white, may have discoloured. Sometimes off-white grouts are used, or even a shade. You can buy small quantities of these or some tiles shops have colour charts which are reasonable. Matching the grout colour is possibly the hardest part of the job.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Andy/John
Thanks for the How-to guides. Been out and about over dinner time, but am having no luck tracing the original tiles! These were fitted when we bought the place, so there are no spares around.
My other option is to fit a plasic frame around the back of the new fan casing to cover the areas where the tiles are missing. Not such a good job, but will allow me to move up to a decent extractor fan.
Thanks again
Phil
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

How about 4 contrasting tiles? If you don't have the originals, then this may well look better than a poor attempt at a match?
Are there some other places in the room that you could drop in some of these contrasting tiles so that it doesn't look like a specific fix for the extractor fan. For example some plain tiles and some with pattern/motifs for other places.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
...snip...

What attachment do you use on a dremel? I've come across cutting disks but I always seem to snap them when trying to cut at any depth.
Paul DS.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

They do a special grout removal cutter and support jig which works quite well.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 12:12:05 -0000, TheScullster wrote:

Can you get matching tiles? If you can you should be able to replace them and not be able to see the join.
Removing the old ones shouldn't be to bad. *Fully* scrape out, right into the plaster, the grout lines between the tiles you want to keep and those you don't then try a thin something under the edge of the one(s) you want to remove and gently lever, they might just pop off. If not progessively increase what you are using say a bolster next gently taped, right up to cutting them out bit by bit with a small cold chisel.
The skim plaster may well come away with the old tiles, this is what you want to make sure that you have fully scrapped the joints out to hopefully stop the skim coming away past the grout line and thus under the tiles you want to keep...
--
Cheers snipped-for-privacy@howhill.com
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.