Ahh..My Opel Manta, which would make strange clonking noises when cornered fast..the garage pointed out that the mudflaps were hitting the ground.
after three years of occasionally not starting, finally the freelander wouldn't start AT ALL/.
So a new fuel pump was easy to diagnose.
another good one was a leaf in the petrol tank. Car would splutter to a halt. By the time we got there the leaf had fallen to the bottom and the car would go for months ....
Local lad had a Goldie that would start and run 'til warm, then play half-dead except at low throttle. Turned out to be a coin that had jammed edge on and was being turned when the airflow increased, acting like a choke. My brother's Francis Barnet scraped on corners, we couldn't see anything and then noticed that the front tube was broken. Not obvious until laden with a 17-stone rider.
What makes you say that the temperature reading is wrong? I suspect it is right - that the water temperature is 88-91 degrees, but that the boiler is still trying to light the burner. I say that because the value changes slightly as normal (88,89,90,89, etc )
I like the suggestion that the boiler is haunted, I had a problem with a haunted toaster last year.
BTW I have complained to WB via their website
Not really an approach that can be adopted in this case, everything interfaces with the pcb
I doubt it at the REAL cost to them of the pcbs
The mains transformer plugs into the pcb, the rest of the power supply is on the pcb
Maxie, I believe you came out with it first. I give it you. Fantastic.
Another good one, Volvo 340 would go for a short while and then almost total loss of power and revs even with foot to floor, then surging.... Fun with the rubber band drive in the frost, blocked fuel return on the pump...
I once heard of a car that would cut out at 70. It turned out to be a antifreeze label on the radiator that blew into the air intake of the air cleaner and cut off the air to the engine..
I think the boiler problem is associated with the "E" setting. I understand this keeps the boiler warm - but if it is alread warm would it show the symptoms reported?
In the case of nothing obvious by inspection, reseating of connectors and checking sensors/testpoints are within range I'd look very hard at the power supply.
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