Nice, I looked at this route, but it all looked a bit complicated and expensive from the various compressed air firms. They too have gone over to 'specialised' pushfit for compressed air.
I took the low tech route and went with galvanised steel tubes, iron fittings and munson rings to the wall. I already had a BSP thread cutter and tube clamp I picked up at a local car boot.
Cheers,
Paul.
DON'T mess about with compressed air doing improvisations. It can easily kill. It only take a few bar to propel metal about the place. Use the proper fittings or don't bother at all.
He did use one of the correct approaches. Steel tubing, iron fittings are the traditional way.
I used another of the correct approaches which is Speedfit blue tube and the black push fit fittings that go with it. It has the advantage of being easy to change and to add additional components when required.
However, I would agree with you that use of unsuitable materials is a really bad idea with compressed air.
I leave that to you.
[snip]
Boggle! I didn't think I would ever see the combination of:
- that phrase
- written by Andy Hall
- in reply to a posting by Doctor Drivel
He does very occasionally get things right and in proportion to the discussion, so it's important to reward him when this happens even though it's quite by accident - helps with his therapy.
Heh, I feel honoured, i've been 'Drivelled'
Yep, no improvisation here ;)
Oh, I dunno, that 22/25mm Blue Pex water pipe looks pretty sturdy ;-)
Cheers
Paul.
No they don't. The pitch is constant and so is the thread depth. It's the base diameter that tapers.
np
I'd have to go into the loft to check the box for the exact pressure, but I know it's a showerforce one.
Cheers
Paul.
|On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:59:48 -0000, "Doctor Drivel" |wrote: | |> The thread tapers away from deep pitch to narrow pitch. | |No they don't. The pitch is constant and so is the thread depth. It's |the base diameter that tapers.
When I learned to cut tapered threads years ago, the thread profile was constant and both the base diameter, and the thread top diameters tapered.
Matt, just do not give advise on topics you know little.
Look at the dies and cut one and it is obvious.
Matt, and another thing. DON'T use pushfits. If the grab ring goes you will know about it.
I always use the correct tools, so don't run into the problems that you do.
LOL. I did use the correct fittings and the correct method of assembly.
BTW, I ride a 180MPH motorbike, I think a bit of compressed air is the least of my worries :-)
HTH
Paul.
Post edited for accuracy...
;-)
Matt, I know you an total amateur, and slow as well, but fittings and tools are two very different things. Hint: you will not find fittings in Makita manuals.
Kill yourself by all mean, but don't take others with you.
Dribble, you are really dim and completely out of your depth. Many days ago I posted a quote from a well respected engineering reference handbook that many in the engineering profession would consider a reasonably definitive definition of "pitch" together with its application to a taper thread.
(see Message-ID: )
THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS DEEP PITCH OR NARROW PITCH
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