Talk the torque.

Oh OH that's tempting My brother bought the Panasonic at the beginning of the year in the US, its good but quite heavy and bulky. The makita looks no bigger then my impact driver, which I value it's size and weight but have always wished you could turn off impact and fit a chuck.

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Reply to
Mark
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Hmm they were Available in the UK from mid 2002

B&Q do a PP whateverjunk one for £39, but cant find it on their web site.

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Reply to
Mark

For £350 now you can.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

I think I would go for:

Decent combi

3 function 2kg SDS Impact driver (large) small light weight drill/driver possibly the small mac

Got a mains drill which I never use these days. A small 12V titan drill that is only very occasionally useful.

Well if you include the ones I have acquired through no fault of my own, I think the total is:

2 x mains, 2 x SDS, 1 x gopher screwdriver, 3 x drill driver, 1 x combi, 1 x 18V impact driver, 1 x TD020E, 1 x core drill, 1 x 12V titan, 1 x pillar drill, 1 x 14.4V angle drill. Not sure whether to include a concrete breaker in there since it can't actually drill....
Reply to
John Rumm

So buy a pair of them then ;-)

I think that is about what I paid for my 18V combi with 3 batts and charger, case etc, *and* the 18V ID body only. I very frequently use them together so would find only having the one tool quite a limitation.

Reply to
John Rumm

Less to carry perhaps, but slower working if much of the work involves fixing things to walls with plugs and screws.

Reply to
John Rumm

You can get small three jaw chucks with a hex mount. Probably can't hold a bit bigger than 10mm and they wobble a bit, but probably ok for pilot holes.

Reply to
John Rumm

So is a Makita body only.

You seem to be agreeing with me.

and lousy at masonry, or with a mixing paddle, or a holesaw...

Why would a tradesman only want one tool? Unless you are doing relatively little drilling and fixing you will work much slower with one tool than with a pair.

Case in point, I have just been lining my new workshop. 50mm PIR foam with 1/2" ply cladding. For fixing I have been using 5 1/8" twinthreads. A long multimaterial 7mm bit in the combi, and a No 3 pozi in the big ID, I can keep working without any titing about changing from the drill to the driver

I get the impression you rarely do anything.

Reply to
John Rumm

Well, yes. But the point was would you find the money for these when starting out your DIY 'career' or use it on other things? I'd shudder to think how much my lifetime's collection of tools cost.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The Hilti battery hammer drill/driver will replace this and drill/driver. Especially when using Bosch Multi drill bits.

The new 4 mode Makita may replace them all, except the SDS.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

I used one with a Bosch multi and click in chuck. The Impacr Drivwer worked fine in masonry.

A specialist low speed drill for that.

With click in chuck it can do that as well.

They dobn't like carrying around lots of tools.

It depends on what the tradesman's job is.

Use screws that do not require pilot holes.

What I do is not how you would do it for sure. I do it the easy and quick way, with quality results.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Agreed, nice idea and no doubt it has its place, but a combi with a drill bit & a driver for the screws is the way to go when fixing.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Using Bosch Multi drill bits the Impact Driver can do most things.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Like drilling holes as rough as a badgers arse....

Its meant for driving bolts & screws, not drilling FFS.

Yes you can drill with them, just like you caould cut Hep2O with a hacksaw...

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Er, no. It is meant for limited drilling too. You didn't know did you? You have been going around buying all sorts of needless expensive tools.

You can cut Hep2O with a hacksaw. I have done it many times, trim off and perfect.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

My case rests....

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Says the handyman - jack of all, master of none. My case rests.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

From the manufacturers website;

"Do not use a hacksaw to cut Hep2O pipe".

Wanker.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

You CAN use a hacksaw as long as the pipe end is square, burr free and trimmed off. What is needed is a bur free, square pipe end. How you do it is irrelevant. This takes skill of which you are devoid of in pipework being an total amateur.

Using pipe cutters leaves a sharp snip on the cut and this has been known, all too often to nip the O ring and cause leaks. So much for the makers pipe snips. Monument have brought out a plastic pipe cutter that requires turning like wheel cutters, to eliminate the maker's cutters snip left behind.

There you go tosser. :-)

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

There is a big difference between "can", and desirable or for that matter efficient. Yes you could do it with a four function machine, but it will be quicker with two separate ones.

Reply to
John Rumm

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