Oh OH that's tempting My brother bought the Panasonic at the beginning of the year in the US, its good but quite heavy and bulky. The makita looks no bigger then my impact driver, which I value it's size and weight but have always wished you could turn off impact and fit a chuck.
3 function 2kg SDS Impact driver (large) small light weight drill/driver possibly the small mac
Got a mains drill which I never use these days. A small 12V titan drill that is only very occasionally useful.
Well if you include the ones I have acquired through no fault of my own, I think the total is:
2 x mains, 2 x SDS, 1 x gopher screwdriver, 3 x drill driver, 1 x combi,
1 x 18V impact driver, 1 x TD020E, 1 x core drill, 1 x 12V titan, 1 x pillar drill, 1 x 14.4V angle drill. Not sure whether to include a concrete breaker in there since it can't actually drill....
I think that is about what I paid for my 18V combi with 3 batts and charger, case etc, *and* the 18V ID body only. I very frequently use them together so would find only having the one tool quite a limitation.
You can get small three jaw chucks with a hex mount. Probably can't hold a bit bigger than 10mm and they wobble a bit, but probably ok for pilot holes.
and lousy at masonry, or with a mixing paddle, or a holesaw...
Why would a tradesman only want one tool? Unless you are doing relatively little drilling and fixing you will work much slower with one tool than with a pair.
Case in point, I have just been lining my new workshop. 50mm PIR foam with 1/2" ply cladding. For fixing I have been using 5 1/8" twinthreads. A long multimaterial 7mm bit in the combi, and a No 3 pozi in the big ID, I can keep working without any titing about changing from the drill to the driver
Well, yes. But the point was would you find the money for these when starting out your DIY 'career' or use it on other things? I'd shudder to think how much my lifetime's collection of tools cost.
You CAN use a hacksaw as long as the pipe end is square, burr free and trimmed off. What is needed is a bur free, square pipe end. How you do it is irrelevant. This takes skill of which you are devoid of in pipework being an total amateur.
Using pipe cutters leaves a sharp snip on the cut and this has been known, all too often to nip the O ring and cause leaks. So much for the makers pipe snips. Monument have brought out a plastic pipe cutter that requires turning like wheel cutters, to eliminate the maker's cutters snip left behind.
There is a big difference between "can", and desirable or for that matter efficient. Yes you could do it with a four function machine, but it will be quicker with two separate ones.
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