She didn't have feet which went off the width scale :-(
But I don't have bunions or squashed toes or any of the other ills of
too-tight shoes :-)
The answer to your question is no. But I WOULD like to know what you meant
by 40-30 ...
The people employed by the companies financed by the women who buy them?
If my admittedly limited knoweldge of the fashion industry is anything
to go on, its as likely to be a woman as a man on the sketchpad.
How about cutting a rectangular section of marine ply big enough to
comfortably cover the existing hole. Then cut a hole for the new sink in the
ply. Screw and glue the ply in place over the existing hole, then tile it
with tiles that coordinate with the current worktop (or maybe plain white).
Finally refit the sink. Not perfect, but a) it might go some way towards
pacifying SWMBO and b) gives you an excuse to buy an electric tile cutter.
Just a thought
Another suggestion for a temporary fix....
cut out a new peice of worktop slightly wider than the sink by a few inches
at each end, and fit the new sink into it.
cut out same size from existing worktop plus 1/8 inch extra or so at each
then insert new unit using those horrible metal or plastic worktop joining
At least SWMBO gets to use her new sink until you get chance to replace the
whole worktop properly....
No way. I didn't buy me a brand spanking new Trend T9 router and
kitchen worktop jig recently to start putting these manky aluminium
joining strips in.....
I'm joining the club of "real" worktop joins from now on......just
picked up my first job for one the end of last week.....
i suppose it doesn't really matter what kind of worktop, but I am guessing
it's a standard laminated chipboard ...... ANYWAY
get a piece of stainless steel larger than the sink, I doubt it will cost
you more than a tenner. put the sink upside down on the steel and mark out
adding about half an inch, then mark out to cut the sink in to the steel,
cut it all out and take off the sharp edges, and you have yourself a
stainless steel sink washer that will fit in perfectly with your sink and
cover the gaps.
How about a nice hardwood "plinth" that sits under the edge of the sink
all the way round the perimeter. That way the sink sits on a small
platform that raises it (say) 1/2". That would save you needing to match
the worktop finish or from needing to do an invisible join with a bit of
A front on view:-
Worktop \ <- edge of sink
Well varnished to match the woodwork in the kitchen and with a nice
routed edge it could actually look quite nice.
If you did not want the extra height you could do the same but route a
rebate into the existing worktop to accept the thickness of the new plinth.
\ <- edge of sink
Hadn't really thought of that idea, but it sounds reasonably feasible.
Except that I don't think there's enough gap at the back of the
worktop to do the rebate in-situ. And it's a 4m worktop conveniently
held in place by tile on 3 sides and a worktop joint at one end - not
so easy to whip it out and put it back.
She's home now. Not very happy..... :(
There's no real reason to rebate the back for a solution that's only going
to last until you can replace the worktop and do job properly. You might
have difficulty rebating the sides to get into the back corners, but then
that's the time when the sharp chisels come out and you finish it off by
Of course, if you hadn't bought such a big router in the first place you'd
get a lot closer... ;-)
email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.