Stick welding revelation

I can see your viewpoint, but inverters give ultimate control over current and voltage. I see no reason why you can't have master of all 3.

So not a scratch start?

Thanks John. Very helpful.

Bill

Are you aware of any multi process machines that can do AC tig, with HF start, foot pedal, variable frequency, mark space etc?

I found plenty that will do DC tig.

In the end I figures a separate machine would probably be easier - especially as it would save swapping gas when swapping process.

Yup, IFAIU Lift start and scratch start are just different names for the same thing (as opposed to HF start on a more sophisticated machine)

I thought (based only on watching welders on youtube) that touching TIG electrodes to the work was a real no-no?

Does anyone really use the terms SMAW/GMAW/GTAW rather than stick/MIG/TIG, or is that just an American thing, or a professional welders thing?

I thought they were just the American terms. In the UK, MMA/MIG/TIG all seem widely understood. There's also SAW and Electroslag and, I suppose, thermite!

You don't want to dip the electrode into the weld puddle, but that different from striking the arc against the (solid) work before the puddle has formed.

Colleges seem quite keen on using the "proper" terms - to the point of calling MIG, MAG in many cases (since most "MIG" gases have some active (i.e. O2) gas content as well).

I also started-out with the idea that I would look for a 3-in-1 machine because I had thoughts of learning to TIG weld. The reviews of the cheap machines put me off them and the price of the non-cheap machines put me of those as well. I decided to go for what seemed/seems to be a good

Some articles seem to think differently:

Yup often the way!

I often have to fight the feature creep when buying new stuff like that, just because "it would be nice" or "might come in useful"!

In the end I decided that the mostly non digital MiG/Stick combo, covers all of what I have done in the past and way more, and gives a much better platform for basic fabrication.

I can probably live without TIG unless I particularly want to do something that only TIG will do, so cross that bridge when it comes!

Seems more like an argument in semantics - since both involve making and breaking contact between the electrode and the metal to start the arc. Its seems to be a question of how much lateral motion occurs in the process.

Ive always thought stick welding was a black art. You've now inspired me to buy some rods and try out the the electrode holder that came with my inverter MIG.

Mike

Start with thinner sticks! They are less sticky.

Not black art but one of those things where 1) it's much easier using the right gear 2) in the right position 3) on the right job (to start with especially) and 4) ideally with a mentor to give you tips re the approach and what is right (setup wise, rather than what should right. The books / chart says 60A but in fact on that particular setup you actually *need* 75A etc).

At welding class (48 years ago) I think we started with just running some beads on some flat (clean) steel sheet. Once you have nice consistent beads (where the flux comes off it big chunks (or one piece) with one light tap), go for a fillet weld between a couple of off cuts with a bit of angle ground on each plate to form a 90 Degree 'V'.

If you get it right with a slight raised weld over the base metal and good penetration you can put it in the vice and see how easy it is to break the weld open (it shouldn't be of course). ;-)

The good thing about being able to stick weld is with good kit it's one of the simplest with no gasses, electronics or feed motors etc. All you really need to do is keep the rods dry (or put them in the oven for a bit if they do get damp).

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Whilst I could weld (stick / gas) and had my own gear from an early age, I got loads of good mentoring from a coded welder who really did make it look so easy. Even welding a h/d pipe overhead in cramped conditions. ;-)

it is, but not hard to learn. Maybe a grey-black art.

If you want easy welding go with gasless mig, WAY easier than stick. Ye olde arc welding with sticks is far cheaper, useful when you've got a lot to do.

And with arc the easiest way to do a weld is to lay the stick on the workpiece, stand back and let it do the weld for you. Short the end to workpiece momentarily to get it going.

NT

I have found being able to get into a comfortable position helps greatly

- even simple things like when using a new (i.e. long) rod, using my free hand to prop the electrode somewhere nearer the business end, makes for a much easier job of keeping it where you want and not waggling all over the place!

I count anything under 2' from the ground as cramped conditions these days!

Oh, absolutely, irrespective of the log rod etc. But then I guess that applies to most things?

Yup, (although you need decent hand protection for that) and again, yer overall position (you and the job) can determine how easy things can be.

I'm still ok on my haunches (for a short time) but cant just spring up from that position like I used to. So, on the floor is ok, or sitting an a low to high stool or standing is ok. Welding overhead can be 'fun' for other reasons than lack of comfort.

When I replaced the 8' square up-and-over garage door that came with my (what was to be) workshop, I replaced it with a square arch 'subframe' (100x100x12mm" angle) and 3 fanlites at the top and a bi-fold door and personal door at the bottom (doors 6'6" high).

I dragged out the stick welder to weld the top fillets as I needed something a bit 'punchy'. I was ok, up on the platform, my mate below, steadying it whist I got the tacks in, not so. I think I had to treat him to a new jumper. ;-)

The top frame / opening windows were all in lighter angle (wired glass) and the doors were 50x25x1.5mm steel box, clad on the inside with steel sheet (so that could be skinned with something more decorative on the outside within the frames).

I put the horizontal steel cutting bandsaw, MIG welder and (very old, bought with the SIP 150) B&D 'Pro' angle grinder to good use on that project. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

If the rod sticks, wind up the current setting.

Right rod for the job. Thicker steel=thicker rods.

Rule 2, bend the rod. This allows you to watch the weld progressing without the stick holder getting in the way.

One of the detachable mains lead "Proline" jobbies?

(I still have one going strong that I got in the late 80's)

No, not on mine John but I did replace the std mains lead for a much longer (orange) one as you *typically* have to plug them into an extension lead to be able to do anything other than just stuff on the bench.

Mine is black, if that helps (I'll see if the info plate is still on there the next time I go to the workshop).

But that's got me thinking ... could it be a Bosch pro ... black rather than green?

Cheers, T i m