Stick on real wood veneer.

Thank gawd for that. ;-)

I've used iron on real wood edging in the past and found it pretty good, so did wonder about using much larger sheets.

OK

I'm quite happy to see the grain structure. I was intending just using an oiled finish.

Happy to take your word for it. Thanks Charles.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
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Surely science has developed better glues than traditional ones made from what was left over from an animal kill? ;-)

There used to be contact adhesives that allowed some movement to position things.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Depends how you use them

... either coat both surfaces, wait for it to go touch dry, carefully position surfaces (with dowels/waxed-paper/etc keeping them apart until sure) then gradually bring the surfaces together while smoothing out.

... or coat one surface and immediately press to the other surface without letting it go off, then it has some give for positioning, but you need to hold it in place while it dries, which to me negates the point of a contact adhesive.

Reply to
Andy Burns

Thats how I have done my occasional bits of veneering A thin even coat of glue on both sides with no lumps or ridges Touch dry before assembly

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is a quick demo

however he does not address veneering the edges if you need to do the edges you might consider doing them first to get some practice in before tackling the big piece

Reply to
humphrey

Correct! Thixotropic contact adhesive, to be precise.

I found it very useful when glueing large Formica sheets to a kitchen worktop I'd built about 40 years ago and it's still there (or at least it was when we finally moved out a few months ago!)

It is still available from several manufacturers but the most common one seems to be Evostik TX528 Thixotropic adhesive.

Reply to
Terry Casey

Boiled dead bits is still the best glue for some jobs. PVA is a hot melt glue, don't know whether the melt temp is suitable for this job - easy enough to try. PVA isn't good at gap filling though.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

Of course. ;-)

Ordinary Evostik seems to have fallen foul of the H&S brigade and doesn't work as well as once - is the Thixotropic OK?

The one I remember is Dunlop Thixofix.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Yes, but they require a heated hydraulic press...

You may be able to get away with this; someone told me they had got this to work (possibly as an on-site bodge): "Use PVA glue, a thin even layer on the wood. Let dry. Iron on untreated wood veneer."

Thomas Prufer

Reply to
Thomas Prufer

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