Steel splashbacks and sockets questions

Our new kitchen - we're figuring on splashbacks behind the worktop I'm hoping to use the ikea "imperativ" rack system: top and bottom slotted rails mounted proud of the (slightly uneven) wall, so the steel sits about 1.5 cm out from the wall.

Of course ikea's matching splashbacks are out of stock in the UK and estimated 3 to 4 months for delivery

First question.

the stainless steel splashbacks I've sourced are un-backed. is there some simple adhesive for gluing s.steel to plywood / mdf to add stability and get them to the right thicknes.??

Second question.

how to mount sockets on stainless steel splashbacks: Should I cut a hole the same size as the mounting box so that all the edges of the socket sits on the splashback? how can I stop the steel bowing inwards, like Rolf's wobble-board, when I tighten up the (longer)socket retaining screws? Do I have to change the boxes , which are currently flush with the plaster skimcoat, for deeper ones??

[ Or should i cut a larger hole in the steel, leave the sockets at wall height i.e. recessed in behind the splashback about 1.5cm, and find some kind of bezel to trim the hole ?? ]

Third Question

How do I cut the steel - will special blades in a jigsaw do it ?? What precautiuons can I take to avoid marking th esurface.

TIA, folks

Andy

Reply to
AndyW
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I was looking at the Ikea splashbacks recently I noticed they were out of stock... didn't realise it'd be for 3/4 months though! Do you mind me asking where you got your alternative from? Was it as cheap as Ikeas? (

Reply to
Mathew J. Newton

Sorry, to avoid confusion as the type/size of splashback I'm referring to I meant 60cmx55cm...

Mathew

Reply to
Mathew J. Newton

that's what I'm going to do. I've asked a few stainless sheet fettlers to skin a sheet of 900mm x 750mm [iirc] ply, probably 12mm thick in brushed 1.0mm stainless and one of them quoted just £20

RT

Reply to
[news]

Yes.

By ensuring that the space behind the steel is packed with something solid. Why wouldn't it be? - you mentioned a plywood backing board.

Ideally yes, or bring the existing boxes forward. If you don't do this (and you did mention using longer screws) then the surfaces exposed at the sides in front of the boxes must not be of ignitable material - e.g. wood.

That would be horrible, IMHO.

I this situation I would also specify supplementary equipotential bonding between the steel splashback, the circuit protective (earth) conductor(s) of the circuit(s) feeding the sockets and the sink and taps, and any other extraneous- or exposed-conductive-parts in the vicinity. Use an Eze-earth clamp on an inconspicuous edge somewhere to get an earth bond connection to the steelwork.

The electrical work here, being in a kitchen, is of course subject to Part P of the building regs and I advise you to seek competent help if you're not sure what you're doing. A large area of exposed metal with sockets fitted in it has the capacity to be _very_dangerous_indeed_ if not properly installed.

HTH

Reply to
Andy Wade

And apart from looking nasty, it would be unusable - unless you leav space at the bottom for cable protectors (especially on moulded plugs) At which point you have probably cut away most of the splashback anyway so why bother?

David

-- Davide

Reply to
Davide

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