Locating sockets for builtin kitchen appliances

[Jonathan]

We're planning the ring for builtin appliances in a new kitchen, and would welcome advice on placing the sockets. Firstly, the sockets must be hidden, and so below worktop height. In general we estimate about

50mm clearance between wall and back of appliance. A plug is about 30mm depth, and so a flush socket might just do, but could be tight. Recessing the sockets into the wall would give more clearance, but this would be more awkward to do. Once the floor is tiled, there will be about 120mm clearance between bottom of floor units and floor, and so we were considering mounting surface sockets under cupboards adjacent to the applicances. However, having the ring be out of the wall, and either the ring or a spur entering the wall to feed surface sockets didn't seem that neat. So, no option seem that great, and advice on where sockets are usually placed for builtin appliances would be most welcome, and also about the idea (and "legality") of sockets under cupboards.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Since kitchen units tend to be fixed to the walls, etc, I don't see anything wrong in using surface mount sockets attached to the back or sides of the units - inside them, as it were. I would (and did) use metal clad ones though.

[Lobster]

Legally you do need to be able to isolate the appliance so fitting sockets completely inaccessibly behind a built-in appliance is a no-no.

I put my (flush) sockets behind cupboards adjacent to the appliance, and cut a hole in the back panel of the cupboard in front of where the socket was, just big enough to get a hand through, switch off the socket, and to be able to pull the plug back through in order to change the fuse if need be. If you plan the position of the hole/socket carefully, the hole will be well above the base of the cupboard or any shelf therein, so stuff won't fall through the hole and down the back into oblivion.

David

[Andy pandy]

Hi

The back of the base unit does not usually go up to the underside of the worktop (1100mm short I think I remember) so you will have a gap big enough to put a surface box immediately under the worktop, fixed to the wall (in an adjacent unit) and still have access to the switch.

Even if the unit has a drawer in the top (drawer line) you may remove the drawer for access to switch the socket off.

Should you have no suitable adjacent units for what ever reason, then sink a back box into the wall behind the appliance (appropriately placed to afford the best clearance depending on the form of the back of the appliance) BUT put this socket on a spur to a switched fuse unit (on the ring) above the work top!! In line with the double sockets above the worktops.

This is the method I have used on many many occasions

Andy

[Andy pandy]

110 mm,,, (11 cm)

[chris French]

In message , Andy pandy writes

No need for FCU here (thought it won't hurt), the plug will be fused, so a 20A switch is fine.