In message , John Rumm writes
Amazing how much you discard as unsuitable: knots, radial cracking, under bark beetle holes etc.
1"/year seasoning is bollocks as the 3 1/2" x 6" stuff still binds my saw after 3 years storing! >
You will note that the shelves will take two rows of bottles on the top and three on the bottom if she really must! ;-)
(it was about as big as I could build it for that location to be fair - can't have another shelf since it would hit the cooker hood - its deeper than needs be for just one row of bottles, but the depth was partly dictated by making the drawers a useful depth)
The finishing oil is a "setting" oil, so is fairly durable I find. The wax ought to help also. It has the advantage of being easy to reapply and touch up if needs be. (and does not smell so bad when drying as poly)
I find it difficult to source decent Baltic birch ply locally, which is a shame, as its a nice material to work with for things like that.
Yup nice... I have done some in the same way although I used a quarter inch cutter in a router. The table saw method is worth keeping in mind though, since it will be faster.
Hoes does not mess about does he!
Just a bit...
(I can do them almost as fast with a jig and router - that's if you exclude the 20 mins setup and tuning first!)
I find even with kiln dried oak it will still move a surprising amount when its cut. There is often internal stresses in the board that you release when you cut it. I have had planks that will try to close up as you cut them (bogging down the saw and risking kick back (no riving knife on my saw), or sometimes when I have cut from both sides, actually "popping" apart as they finally separate, converting one straight flat board into a pair of banana shaped ones!
On 14/01/2016 08:23, Thomas Prufer wrote: ... snipped
Thanks for that link. It's very interesting to see the bow saws being used, especially the twisted one. Using them looks much more satisfying than setting-up a router.
And poly can look horribly greasy.
Chippie had nitrocellulose lacquer, which is very forgiving, and touches up well, and dries extremely fast. (But it needs a sprayer, stinks, and it's not very waterproof -- and the lacquer thinner fumes are wicked.)
He'd get lots of sheets, as it's clean-looking, and warp-resistant. Came off a lorry, delivery not a problem if you order half a dozen 1,50 by 3,00...
I like the look of the edges: We glued up a stack of thick birch multiplex (40 or 50mm, something like that), a central layer of wengewood, and multiplex. , and had a wood turner make conically tapered legs out of it. Made a very interesting pattern (though the inside of multiplex turns out to be not entirely uniform, with occasional voids and overlaps in the veneer).
He would go through several sheets of birch play, and turn them into drawers, not taking more than an hour to cite them. He had the sequence of sanding, cutting, making the joins etc. down cold, and would spend more time spraying and sanding them than making them.
Did you see the around-the-corner frame saw he used? Neat trick...
Thomas Prufer
Ah, the smell of oak binding on a table saw and scorching...
Thomas Prufer
Is it sad if you can identify a wood species just by the smell of the wood when its machined?
Yup, I used the end of a tin of "yacht varnish" on:
and regretted it - it looks too "plastic", and took weeks and weeks to finally lose the smell of it. I probably should have just used shellac.
In the US it seems easy to get aerosol cans of that, which are ideal for small projects. It does not seem to be so easy to find over here.
With a well practised flick of the wrist to change direction in half a saw cut... (when he brought that out I thought it looked a bit wide for a coping saw)
Now I wonder how he would do a half blind dovetail ;-)
You can buy this in spray cans. Not cheap but lovely
It's basically sprayable model aircraft dope.
is where I got mine. Not cheap, but very mice product
If you slow down the replay and step through that section it looks as if the blade has a short vertical section and then twists through 90 degrees, but it's difficult to be certain.
It does.
My friend had to give up his workshop, and I salvaged such a saw. No one knew what it was for, and it took a friend who does a lot of patent searches to find it:
Mine has teeth on "both" edges, rather than having one smooth edge.
Thomas Prufer
My-friend-the chippie did half-blind dovetails on low drawer fronts...
Stack all the fronts flat on the bench so they form a "staircase", as many as will fit comfortably, and clamp to table. This is so that each single step in fabrication can be done to many fronts in turn without having to change anything. Mark off the joint using a bit of wood picked out up the trash as a guide. This gives the width of the dovetail, of the hole part. Another bit offcut to mark of the thickness of the side of the drawer.
He had a piece of old cabinet scraper in a wood handle that cut along the endgrain; the handle would give the depth (i.e. the amount of wood towards the front left uncut), the bend the angle or flare of the dovetail. Smack with hammer to cut into the endgrain. (No need to cut to the bottom, or to the line marking the thickness.)
Take a sharp chisel and chop out the dovetail. Don't worry, chop, chop, ... "and don't lose these little bits of wood, we'll need them again tomorrow!"
The other rend of the dovetail woudl be marked out with a pencil and a bit of scrap to match the holes cut, and the tails would be cut on a bandsaw. Like it says in the video, if it doesn't fit, don't use force, use a bigger hammer. If it wasn't quite tight, it would close up nicely with the dust from going over it with the the edge sander and the nitrocellulose lacquer.
Like in the video: it takes practice, it isn't perfect, and it isn't a perfect artisanal dovetail -- but with practice, all the sloppiness is "inside" and invisible. But this wasn't for fine furniture, either...
Thomas Prufer
No!
I recall "obeche", a very soft and splinter-free wood. Good for painted moldings that won't get an wear, sauna benches, and the long boards bakers use to shove bread into their ovens (because of the "no splinters", see?) Smells pretty foul coming out of the thicknesser! And I recal the days when the thicknesser spewed chips out the back, and you were there standing hip-deep in pile of chips, none of this modern dust collection stuff. (Stung, and a view of the spinnig knives was pretty scary, too...)
And think of the whistle of a sharp hand plane...
Thmas Prufer
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