There seem to be several systems around which allow pipes to be joined without using tools.
At first sight, at any rate, they all look basically similar - having O-ring seals and a means of gripping the pipe.
Is there a FAQ or document/chart anywhere which explains any subtle differences between the different offerings? I have in mind component construction, assembly method, disassembly potential, application areas, cost, advantages and disadvantages.
I note that some Speedfit fittings say that they're only suitable for water up to 65 degC - thus ruling out central heating use in most cases - and some of them seem to have elaborate inserts, with several O-rings on.
Can anyone out there throw any light on the subject?
Osma Gold have metal encapsulated fittings and stainless steel inserts, as does Marley Equator. A special tool is needed to demount. Gold has a an O ring with two edges in a "W" shape giving another layer of protection. Hep2o and Polyplumb, to demount you unscrew the fitting. Polyplumb say insert a new O ring and grab ring.
There are brass/copper push fits for copper pipe, with Tectite and Cuprinol in the game.
Speedfit? Fine for low pressure applications where cold water is involved. Above that I would be scared.
All Marley and Speedfit pipe has an oxygen barrier. The others? Two types of pipe, with and without. So make sure you get the right pipe. CH needs an oxygen barrier, especially sealed systems.
Each of the manufacturers has technical data for applications and installation instructions.
You do need to make sure that you select the correct range for the application.
The standard Speedfit is OK for CH applications.
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inserts used with all makes are mainly to stiffen the area around the seal and to prevent the tube from deforming.
Those with extra O rings provide additional protection against the effects of side forces.
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's fittings also have a twist/lock arrangement which provides additional security.
The most important things are to follow the instructions regarding bending radius, support, cutting (use a tube cutter and not a hacksaw), keeping clean before use
I've used all the major brands at one time or another and never had any problems with any of them. All are produced to BS7291:2001 and licenced.
My immediate requirement is to re-plumb my bath taps, using flexible braided tap connectors, and joining to copper pipe in a fairly inaccessible place - hence I want to use a "tool-less" joint.
These braided connectors come in various flavours - pushfit, speedfit etc. When connecting to copper, is any one system better than the others?
Again I've connected onto copper tube with all of the main brands of plastic push fitting without problems. It's important to make sure that the end is clean and no burs, so definitely use a tube cutter. If you are tight on space, the miniature ones made by Rothenberger and available in heating places will fit into tight spots. The slight indenting effect produced by a pipe cutter is helpful.
More to the point, I would look carefully at the different types of flexible braided hose - some have wider bore than others.
The temperature limited ones are normally for their range of service valves rather than standard connectors so there's no problem with central heating. The optional O-ring pipe insert just provides extra security - I've had no leaks to date without using them. IME the pipe pushes home more easily with Speedfit connectors probably because of the twist lock feature.
The fittings should all be inter-changeable on all types of pipe. The inserts however must be exactly the type to match the pipe.
Avoid plastic pipe into compression joints - if you really can't avoid that it is absolutely essential the insert/support ferule/tube is used. Elsewhere the pipe end inserts are very good practice and will help with correct assembly.
In all cases the fittings tend to have two distinct phases when you insert the pipe. The first phase picks up the grabbing mechaism the second phase makes the water seal. Nearly all the bad joints are due to failure to push the pipe far enough into the fitting. Many types of pipe are marked to make sure you put it in far enough.
I've used both JG's pipe and Hepworth's, I much prefer the latter it is more flexible although it is also kinkable if abused. The JG pipe inserts are also severe restrictions on the pipe bore whereas the Hepworths are quite thin s/s.
AIUI the story of barrier pipe goes as follows:
Plastic pipe was introduced but deprecated by the conservative views held by the employees of a very large service company. The company as a large emergency cover provider was (and probably still is) looking for ways to avoid delivering on the obligations. Or may be they were getting too much flak from there employees? The upshot was that the company said they wouldn't cover systems with plastic pipes and attached the blame on diffusion of oxygen through the walls of the plastic pipe.
I beleive that it is possible to get some oxygen diffusion through a plastic pipe - however the amount must be tiny (I reckon) and an open header tank must be far more significant.
The manufacturers responded by producing laminated pipe walls including a gas impermeable (sp?) layer.
I only have experience with Hepworth, JG and Cuprofit fittings.
Cuprofit are the least obtrusive, probably the toughest and very very hard to demount and you need the tool for it.
Hepworths are the ugliest and have improved when they got rid of the sharp s/s finger slicer (sorry grab ring) which is now a moulded pastic part with metal inserts. You can easily take them apart.
Speedfit are probably the easiest to take apart and dont require that you dismantle the fitting to do so. More recent units have a backnut which can be further tightened for extra peace of mind.
Makers say it is OK to used compression on plastic.
Er, no. Hep2o is the other way around. They changed from the other way, so they may change back.
Some grab rings don't grab enough and fittings come shooting off under pressure.
Hep2o have soft non-barrier pipe and hard barrier pipe just like Speedfits.
JG are plastic, all others metal.
In a sealed system it can make a difference.
Continuous high temperature exposure to chlorine should be avoided with plastic pipe, as when using a secondary circulation looop. Hot chroninated water is pumped out of the cylinder around a loop back to the cylinder, all the hot water supplies are taken from the loop. It should be on a timer so that the operation is not continuous.
I like the old s/s grab ring. Plenty tough. Managed to break the new green style ring once (as opposed to the flawed white style) and havn't been totally confident of them since. Fortunately there are plenty of "old style Hep" brands around. The main Hep improvement was that they moved to grab first technology so that plumbers were still in the house when it leaked as opposed to long gone.
Unfortunately you wouldn't know a bodge if it smacked you in the chin. The makers say it is OK. I have used compression on plastic and not one problem yet.
Nope! "because they are so slack and leak a lot." You have to learn to read or comprehend what the words mean. You will be much better then and your life will be so much more fulfilling.
Wrong this time. That's original Hep, current Hep grabs first. Don't think they will change back because plumbers blamed seal first for subsequent blowouts.
Hep2O 15mm is of course not the same as BS 864 15mm form IMI which is not the same as 15mm from JG. Yeah right!
In fact you wouldn't get a 22mm compression joint to tighten on 3/4" ID imperial copper (about 21.5mm OD). JG speedfits will handle this if you tighten the backnut up! So if anything the plastic fittings are more interchangeable.
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