I don't think anyone is doubting that the Daf/Volvo transmission had two
sets of pulleys, one for each wheel. What some people are wondering is
whether those pulleys can operate independently of each other or whether
they are locked (maybe via common vacuum control line) to the same ratio.
From what some people are saying, they *can* select different ratios and so
*can* act as a limited slip differential.
Makes sense, if it wasn't detachable it soon would be. B-) I was
surprised the valance on the DII could bring the car to a halt with
just an inch or so of packed snow pushd up in front of it and not
suffer any damage. OK I stopped trying to proceed when it was obvious
something was severly hindering progress and I simply backed away.
On most cars the valance would have flexed up and start to act as a
rachet when trying to reverse making it a right PITA to get unstuck.
Land Rover have lost the plot. I don't know what I'd replace the
current Freelander II (after two Discovery II's) with. The dealers I
bought it from keep trying to buy it back and sell me a new Discovery
Sport. Now if that "sell" was "give" and to the same spec as the FL
II I might be interested but I doubt they'd be interested in giving
me a £40,000 plus car in exchange for a 3 year old FL11 with 50,000+
miles on the clcok. B-)
But still as shit when a diff housing gets grounded, at that point it becomes a
shed with one wheel static and three wheels spinning all the power down the
If you want proper ability in adverse conditions with lumps in the middle of the
track then you need something with portal axles like a Unimog or Haflinger or
Pinzgauer and multiple diff locks such that sticking one wheel in the air
doesn't strand the entire vehicle.
A more modern showroom standard vehicle like a Discovery or Range Rover with
traction control, indiividual wheel braking and diff locks (as long as it's not
screwed by electricial problems) will outperform any standard Defender in
And a full sized proper shovel not some little folding thing. If your
in snow deep enough to have got stuck you'll have a fair bit of the
stuff to shift.
Hum, I wouldn't stand on 'em. Car may lurch or slide sideways...
Basically avoid use of the brakes, gently use the gears and engine
braking. A rolling wheel has far more grip than a locked one, it
takes quite a concious effort to lift your foot off the brake when
sliding towards a tree. Just be aware that whe the wheels start
rolling again the car will probably instantly go in the direction the
wheels are pointing. So if you've naturally steered into the skid to
full lock there could be a very dramatic change of direction.
I find 3rd and 30 works most of the time, fast enough to have enough
momemntum to whumpf through 2' drifts(*), not so fast that you might
not have enough stooping space.
(*) Up here the snow is cold, dry and powdery, it doesn't stick
together at all and is useless for snow balls or snowmen. Drifts are
light and soft, might not be quite the same at lower levels with
sticky snow. B-)
And for an automatic car?
I've been driving an automatic through all sorts of depths of snow for
years, I think I may have slipped into a habit of the correct method of
snow driving without realising it, but I always worry I'm overestimating
my driving ability.
In days of yore (well, in the 1940's and 1950's anyway), my father
always had a set of snow chains in the boot, for use in emergencies
(he was a GP, and being able to visit patients in all weathers was
essential). But they're rough on the tyres, especially when you get
back onto tarmac with no snow. Don't see them much now.
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