Personally I would just use my mobile phone if I want to make a phone call during a power cut. If necessary I would drive my car to get a better signal.
That depends on the load you are supporting - the higher it is, the shorter the support time. There is a graph here:
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That's good.
The power supply needs to have a current capacity of equal or better than the load. So if the mini UPS can supply 3A and your router only requires 2A, that is no problem. (the other way around *might* be a problem)
In reality you may find that the quoted load from the router only applies to when it is running flat out, using the most power hungry combination of features at the same time. Much like your PC with its
450W PSU will likely be using ~60W a fair amount of the time, and probably never get close to full load.
Close to negligible I would have thought - it needs to run its battery charger, but other than that it will be pretty close to the consumption of the attached load.
(and since you never turn a router off, that will dominate the total consumption)
The manual makes no mention of it:
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However there is nothing stopping you using a shelf, or just a Velcro strap (or cable tie etc) fixed to the wall to hold it.
I don't expect it does on a continuing basis but this is what the rating plate says. I thought the replacement supply had to match the existing supply as closely as possible but I could be misdirecting myself.
It says 'lithium ion' on the spec sheet. Lithium ion typically has lithium plus some combination of nickel, manganese and cobalt - proportions vary depending on the exact design.
Spec sheet says: 3.7V/2200mAh x 2, so that's two mediocre 18650 cells. In other words total energy 16Wh. That's the same as a 4400mAh powerbank off Amazon. By comparison a power tool battery might be about 96Wh (18V at
5Ah) and cost about £50 from Makita or £25 from Aldi.
(a powerbank off Amazon may not be set up to run as a UPS, however, and will typically only offer 5V. However just a point of comparison).
As long as the rated current at the given voltage is greater than the current your router takes, it's fine.
No idea, but if there are 2x 3.7v cells in series the native voltage is only
8.4v at full charge (nominal 7.4v). To make the 12v output they'll have to run a boost converter, which will lose a few percent efficiency. I'd guess standby power of maybe a watt or two?
Everything can be fixed to a wall with big enough nails :-)
It needs to match on voltage, and equal or exceed on current usually. So if the device needs 100mA, and you fit a PSU capable of supplying 5A it will work just fine - however you will be using a more expensive PSU than is actually necessary.
Maybe I am but it says in the instructions that only the supplied charger should be used. It says in the FAQ for the UPS that it is not powerful enough to run a Virgin router. It says somewhere else that the polarity could be reversed which would destroy the router. I think I need to apply some careful thought.
Might be on a 5v supply, they are typically about 10W. Mine is 12v 0.8A.
Depends on the length of the powercut and how widespread it is. Mobile nodes tended to fail between 30h and 48h in. After that you needed to put your phone into airplane mode to stop it going flat in short order broadcasting "ET phone home" at max power.
Ask yourself why? They are worried that they will cop for the tech support or warranty claims when some numpty uses another PSU because they lost the right one, and picks one that is not the right voltage or polarity or can't supply adequate current.
There is no *technical* reason that an alternative PSU of adequate specification would not work as well (or better) than the original.
I thought you said you had a Fritzbox? If so, why do you care about running a virgin router?
(And note that Virgin DOCSIS (i.e. cable) routers are power hungry beasts, with a reputation for not properly coming out of reset and powering up if the PSU can't handle the inrush current at startup).
It might, so don't use the wrong polarity!
Take your multimeter, stick it on a DC volts range and probe the end of the plug on the existing PSU. Observer whether the inner or the outer is positive. Now repeat the test on the UPS, and verify it is the same.
Your router:
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Page 130, Maximum power consumption 20W. So if it is a 12V supply, then the maximum current will be 20/12 = < 1.7A
Typical power 8W (so 8/12 < 0.7A
The UPS:
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Output current available at 12V 3A
So based on :
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You could get something in the order of 90 mins of run time.
(however if you are still worried, but a proper inverter USP and use that to power the router via the original PSU - it will cost you significantly more to get the same run time, but you would also be able to support additional devices at the same time)
I don't but with a suggestion it was not suitable for one router, I was concerned it might not be suitable for my router either. Now that you have explained the differences, that concern evaporates.
Will do this.
This will be the reason for the 2 amp power supply.
I have one of these for my PC and I could run an extension lead but my understanding is that the one for the PC (Riello) will last significantly under 90 minutes - more like 7 minutes.
(Why do I need a router after my PC has been shut down? Good question, but I thought it would be useful for my iPad or phone if the mobile signal vanishes)
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