SOT (as not DIY): car question

Jan 13, 2022 Last reply: 4 years ago 33 Replies

I am the proud owner of a Nissan Micra (K12 era). The rear section of the heatshield has fallen off. The garage say they cannot refit it because the mountings are corroded.



He says it will be a very difficult job to remove the exhaust to weld on new bolts and re-attach the heatshield, and he will have to take advice.



Meantime, a friend (not an automotive engineer) says we can simply put four M10 bolts through the floor and seal to prevent corrosion. The garage man says this is bad practice and could weaken the floor (which sounds highly improbable to me).



I suggested industrial strength epoxy resin adhesive but he says this would not work because of the heat. I thought you could build whole cars with epoxy resin.



Is there an easy way to reattach a heatshield cost-effectively for an old vehicle? (Living in Scotland, it may be that the heatshield is not important as the bit below the fuel tank is okay).


Might ?rivnuts? be the simple answer here? Like rivets but with a threaded core. Drill a hole, insert rivnut, screw bolt into rivnut.

This is just an example, not a recommendation for this one.

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Tim

The heat shield under the cat is only there to stop you setting the grass on fire in the summer....

Google RainMan Rays Repairs...he broke a bolt off that held a heatshield on to an exhaust manifold...cant remember what car - and end up welding a bolt head to the manifold to make a stud that would take a nut

?Floor? to me suggested that we?re talking about the heat shield between the exhaust or catalytic converter and the floor rather than anywhere near the manifold.

Tim

It's the last section at the back.

An unlikely possibility in most Scottish summers surely ?.

Too quick for me, that was exactly what I was going to suggest. Oddly enough I had the bonnet of my new (second hand) Nissan open a couple of days ago and found that the air intake tube that goes from the radiator to the air filter was just flapping around, not fixed at the front to a thin cross-member. Missing a pair of M8 nuts and bolts (very overkill) and the second nut more or less impossible to hold in place short of major dismantling. Why not captive nuts! So, into the crossmember holes went a couple of M6 rivnuts (I had to drill the holes out by about half a millimetre) and with a broad head socket screw in each I was sorted.

That said, in this case the rivnuts will protrude inside and might be inconvenient. So I might be more inclined to put bolts (or flat head screws) through from the inside of the car. Pop a penny washer between the bolt and the floor to spread the load. If you really have to minimise protrusion into the car then just have the bolt head inside the passenger compartment, penny washer and nut or spacer underneath the car. A bit of suitable mastic goo both sides as a sealant and to minimise corrosion.

same applies though. weld something to the floor.

Need to lift a bit of carpet tho.

On Thu, 13 Jan 2022 21:09:43 +0000, The Natural Philosopher snipped-for-privacy@invalid.invalid wrote: [snip]

This is what he was supposed to be doing today!!!

He said he couldn't do it because it would involve removing the exhaust, which would probably get broken.

But not really worth having a special run for those sold in scotland and some of those would likely be swanning around outside scotland in summer at times anyway.

Can?t he MIG weld some nuts or bolts (the heads) to the floor? No need to drill holes etc. MIG welding should be ok if the floor is thick enough.

As for epoxy, JB weld do a high temp epoxy.

I would have thought if large washers were used it really should be OK you should have seen some of the 'repairs' to the old original mini in its day. However cosmetically having bolt heads sticking through the floor may well not be ideal. How much longer do you reckon the car will last though?Brian

I think it depends on the extent of the corrosion of course. as the garage guy may mean that you would need to weld a palate over the corroded area to distribute loads. I think also without the heat shield, would not the floor get a bit um hot? Brian

Rather than welding/bolting to allow replacing the heatshield, would it be feasible to use heat bandage and steel zip-ties around the exhaust instead?

last year was one of the best...bring on global warming...I'm doing my bit was a 4L Mustang...tee hee

Would this not raise concerns at an MOT or in the event of sale? Would it be a 'modification' to declare to the insurers?

I agree with that. I just want it fixed and I am (more than) surprised this is not a perfectly routine job for a garage TBH.

It's on a life extension project now until I have moved house and have access to a charging point for an EV. The back seat never gets used anyway which is where the bolts would be :-)

I had a back box heat shield fall off. I did manage to reattach it, but from what I could find online, it wasn't really necessary - only being fitted to keep things standard, but not needed in any but the hottest countries.

Heat shields at the front, such as over the catalytic converter are another matter entirely.

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