Something slower setting than superglue - SATA power connector repair

I have a brand new Seagate 3TB SATA 3 drive with the power connector plastic bit snapped off.
Never had it happen before, I suspect a shoddy plastic moulding, but difficult or impossible to prove that I didn't break it by trying to force it.
No luck with RMA to eBuyer, and Seagate don't repair HDDs or sell the bits.
So it looks as though my best option may be to try and glue the plastic back onto the metal.
Superglue has been suggested but (not that I've used it much) I think that it is very quick acting and if I don't get it absolutely right at the first attempt then I could end up even worse off.
So is there something suitable for bonding hard plastic to metal (and a very skinny bit of hard plastic) which allows you to slide the two bits together, reposition to get them absolutely aligned, then hold together for a bit whilst it sets?
Assuming I manage to repair it then I will probably use an all-in-one connector for both power and data to give more rigidity.
The alternative is to glue a modular power cable to the drive as a permanent fixture.
Cheers
Dave R
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On 02/02/2013 16:01, David.WE.Roberts wrote:

I have had this happen on a fairly pricey SSD in the past...

Well its what I would go with... superglue sets when its deprived of air usually. So you can paint some on the broken edge, and also on the side where it will be against the back of the "pins", and still have some working time. Slide it down the pins into place, and get it into position. Support it will a stick or spatula to hold it in place, and give it a squirt of Cyano accelerator. The will lock it in position pretty much instantly. Leave for a few mins to cure fully.
I have a load of SATA to Molex power adaptor leads - so I then stuck on of those on it so that I could disconnect it at the other end of the lead at a later date if required.
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Nope. Cyanoacrylate superglue is set by the moisture in the air.
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On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 16:45:51 +0000, Huge wrote:

I was just going to search for cyano accelerator - are you telling me that this could be a fine mist of water?
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Dave R
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I've used this method to set it instantly, but the problem(s) are that it goes milky, any drips or spillage set instantly and are hard to remove and the reaction is very exothermic - all in all, it's not very satisfactory. Much better just to breathe on it.
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On 02/02/2013 16:52, David.WE.Roberts wrote:

No, its a volatile solvent based stuff... It gasifies almost immediately.
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Ethanol.
It appears that baking soda is also a decent accelerator.
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On 02/02/2013 16:59, Huge wrote:

My tin (siroflex) says "contains Heptane, Hexane mixture of isomers (max5% n-Hexane". Not sure what proportion of that is active ingredient and what is just propellant though.

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I thought the OP wanted to slow down the setting, not accelerate it... :-)
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On 02/02/13 16:52, David.WE.Roberts wrote:

it can. a sweaty thmb on one bit works..

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On 02/02/2013 18:03, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

although you may find you can't get the sweaty thumb off the thing after! ;-)
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On Sun, 03 Feb 2013 01:31:32 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

BTDTcan'tgetTTSon!
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On 02/02/2013 16:52, David.WE.Roberts wrote:

You huff on the join - the moisture in your breath will set it off.
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On 02/02/2013 16:45, Huge wrote:

Indeed - sorry I was thinking of the threadlock style glues...
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BTW, the shelf life of cyanoacrylates can be greatly extended by keeping them in the 'frig. The 25ml bottle I got from Screwfix is still going strong several years later, with refrigeration and careful handling (get the top back on *fast* to expose it to the air as little as possible.)
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On 02/02/2013 17:02, Huge wrote:

Yes. I keep mine in the freezer - as recommended in all the best model aircraft magazines! It remains liquid and is ready for instant use but lasts for a few years.
Another Dave
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Ta for the tip, now moved to the fridge.
I also blow into the nozzle (NOT applying lips!) sharply to clear the hole, and don't screw the top back on tight, just enough to close it. That prevents it from clogging up and having to be cleared with a paperclip or similar next time you use it.
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Rap the bottle sharply on a hard surface before putting the top on. Blowing on it is a bad idea...
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On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 16:14:50 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

<snip>
Just looked and there are SATA power lead extenders so I may go with one of those - although I have been pointed in 'uk.comp.homebuilt' to connectors which combine a SATA data lead and power lead (much like the adapters for external USB drives) with a Molex adapter.
This could be more rigid that just a power extension.
<http://dx.com/p/sata-7-15p-sata-7-4p-data-power-cable-30cm-length-58857 and <http://www.maplin.co.uk/sata-ii-r-a-datapower-to-molex-sata-ii - cable-351963> and <(Amazon.com product link shortened) />/ B004NO0KIQ/>
Cheers
Dave R
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how come it doesn't set in the tube then?
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