Soldering

[Bill]

I may have a need to bring myself up to speed with some electronics repair, and may need to invest in some more modern technology.

For example, using a blowlamp to desolder chips is probably no longer state of the art, so I've been looking at the very cheapest Chinese devices. They seem to get reasonable reviews, and I need to get up to speed.

My main question is whether people prefer one unit with both hot air and traditional iron or two separate units. I never have much space to work because I'm so untidy, and wonder whether the dual units would be awkward with two cables trailing around the dining table rather than just the iron and the hot air as separate sessions.

I'm very out of date. Solder paste would be a new experience to me. I do have huge amounts of old electronics to practise on.

I've watched a few YouTubes on the subject but usually fall asleep well before the end, so any succinct views, suggestions or advice would be very welcome.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Just what do you intend doing where you need to de-solder chips?

I do lots of hobby electronics and do have a hot air device. But could count on the fingers of one hand how often it's been needed. Apart from heat shrinking sleeving. ;-)

I do have a v.expensive desolder station, though.

[Bill]

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes

I have purchased a Range Rover.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Then build yourself a MegaSquirt. Through hole components, so no fancy gear needed.

The snag with repairing car maker's stuff is finding out which chips they've used. Which are often specials anyway.

[Bill]

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes

Mine's diesel. And mainly German.

The suspect component in question is a MOSFET in the Lighting Control Module and controls the dash lighting, hence the backlights on the LCD ribbon display that show the error messages.

I was being a bit facetious. There are a lot of other bits and pieces here eg laptops and, in particular, a Tascam firewire audio interface that needs better input chips and input protection (you have to plug in the mics before switching on the phantom power), where the ability to desolder cleanly might be worthwhile.

[Theo]

I don't think there's much merit having two in the same unit, apart from space reasons. They're basically completely different tools. I would be tempted to get the right tool for each job, and not compromise on trying to find a 2-in-1. Because of the time to swap tools, I tend to hot air everything and then use the iron to tidy up, so not much swapping between the two.

CPC usually have some reasonably cheap own-brand kit (Duratool etc) if you don't fancy fishing around ebay.

Practice does help. Also learn how to use flux and solder wick.

Theo

[Andy Burns]

I have one of these

The hot air side certainly sees more use for heat-shrink than anything else, but I'd buy it again even just for that ...

[Bob Eager]

I use a little Dremel gas blowlamp for that.

[Bill]

In message , Andy Burns writes

Thanks, Andy. That looks like one of the types I was looking at.

I was wondering how interchangeable the ebay spare bits and nozzles are because some of the very cheap Chinese "stations" seem to come with only one bit and rather large nozzles.

I just bring a hot soldering iron near to heat shrink sleeving but do need something better.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Really, if you're new to this sort of thing, repairing surface mount stuff with microprocessors etc could well be beyond you. It is for me - I sent off my laptop to have the processor re-soldered.

Replacing a MOSFET should be OK though. The trick is not to attempt to save the faulty componemt - but to minimalism any damage to the PCB. So carefully cut all the 'legs' and unsolder one by one.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Really don't fancy waving a naked flame around unless essential.

The hot air re-work station is ideal - small jet and you can set the temperature to what you need.

[Bob Eager]

I only use that for wires that are free floating and not inside something.

Inside equipment I get the re-work station nozzle out.

[Andy Burns]

Only got the nozzles it came with, did buy a generic set of 'fake haiko' tips, maybe they could fit a little tighter over the element, but work ok.

[dennis]

The mosfet I just did was soldered by a big tag too, but it wasn't too bad.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Ah - mine is situated alongside my solder/desolder station, so more convenient than getting the blowlamp. If at the bench, of course.

[John Rumm]

Two separate units would be my choice... a hot air station, and a temperature controlled iron.

Solder paste is handy for assembly of new surface mount boards, but less use for rework IME.

A separate supply of flux, and some very fine solder wire are very handy for SMD work.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I simply couldn't exist without my Pace de-solder iron. ;-)

[John Rumm]

Yup a good desolder tool can be handy as well. I have a basic manual pump with an integrated high watt iron that can be good - especially for getting through leaded components out of multilayer PCBs. Not as nice as a proper desolder station, but it does depend a bit on the work you are doing.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Most of my stuff is through hole. I know some can replace complex parts on surface mount, but not me.

[Fredxxx]

I reserve through-hole for connectors and heavy components for resilience. The rest are surface mount.

The technique is strong reading glasses (+3) and nothing smaller than

0603. A Prior (mantis style) microscope helps too.