As some might have read we've been supplied with a number of oil filled radaitors
So I unpacked them and installed them, one by one.
In an attempted to trip our 32 amp circuit braker I would have thought that 5 would have done it, but they didn't.
On switch on they started at about 1.6KW (using an old maplin power meter)
I left them fully on, that's the highest setting .
The lab voltage dropped from the 220V to about 202V so that accounts for it I guess.
But what realy suprised me was the power consumption of a radiator when it was full on, anyone care to guess what it was.
Also, did the radiator cycle a lot on its thermostat?
Many oil rads are incapable of losing the heat to the air at a rate that
matches the element rating - so they cycle on and off.
A shit B&Q rad would cycle at about 50%.
DeLonghi Ventos that I have can more or less maintain full output power
due to a superior fin and air path design.
On Wednesday, 8 November 2017 12:57:11 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
That's what confused me, I assumed that if the LEDs were on with the thermostate set to maxium it'd it would use about 2KW, but I found that it was just 705W.
If I reduced the thermostat knob then the LR+EDs would go off and the consumption dropped to 0w as expected. After letting it cool and turning the thermostat back to full, the LEDs came back on and 1.7KW .
I guess this cycle is 1.7KW and 700W , I guess I'm used to cycles going fron zero to full.
I have a DeLonghi at home maybe I'll test that too.
On Wednesday, 8 November 2017 16:18:01 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
Might suggest it but it's not the cae.
fort eh last 2 hours it;s been full on at 705 watts.
If I switch of teh I rocker it;s LED goes out the other II LED remains on and the power drops to 0W, a few mins later I hear a click the same LEDs on and off but the power goes to 1045W.
Switching the I back on power 1734W
Switch II off 702W
So you obviously have this wrong.
but that's not the case it appears as though when fully on for a lenght of time II elements are switched out and the I left on, unless you manually switch it off.
On Wed, 8 Nov 2017 08:54:54 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
In addition to what has been mentioned elsewhere, the link suggests
you have a 3 level (switchable) heater, where one element is ~700W and
the other 2000-700 = ~1300W.
So, you have choice of output powers of (nominally) 700, 1300 and
The thermostat *should* function on all / any settings (so you should
measure 700, 1200 or 2000W or nothing).
The 'overtemp' switch should also work on all / any and that may or
may not cut in (open) before the thermostat does, depending on what
wattage you are using (input energy > output load).
The 'on' indicator may or may not indicate it is heating or that it is
just on (depending where it is in the circuit).
Anything else would suggest that it's either wired incorrectly, or is
supposed to work like that (instructions)?
Cheers, T i m
On Wednesday, 8 November 2017 22:16:30 UTC, T i m wrote:
Yes that seems reasonable.
So if a heater is left on in the III position and the thermostate fully clockwise in it's maxium position what electrical power will the heater use and how much will it cost to leave it on from 9-5.
if I have 5 of these and two 1.5KW versions set to the same settings how much will this cost to run from 9-5 ?
That's the sort of things I'm curious about as at 9am the temerature was 14C
it is now 12 midday and teh temerature is 15C (so still below the recommened 16C as stated in the 1992 factories act section 7.
Yes I do pretty much get those results.
I aslo tested the impedence which seems to be 25 ohms to 65 ohms from memory as I can't find the paper I wrote it down on a few days ago.
Yes I know, so with both lights on what power should the heater be running at.
Well the instuctions are on the site, but are not the same as the ones delivered but look the same with very similar specs and look pretty much the same.
On Thu, 9 Nov 2017 04:07:20 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
Assuming the thermostat never trips off and so the heater is on for
the entire time then (ignoring and load / wattage variations) then it
will be 17 - 09 (hrs) x 2 x (so 16) x whatever you pay per kWh for
your electricity (20p?). So that's £3.20 / rad per day (worst case)
but that soon becomes over 60 quid per weekday month (~£240 / q /
Above x 5
The heaters aren't powerful enough for that environment.
2kW (if I understand it right and how I would expect it to work
On Thursday, 9 November 2017 12:28:28 UTC, T i m wrote:
clockwise in it's maxium position what electrical power will the heater us
e and how much will it cost to leave it on from 9-5.
So what power will one radaitor consumer when set to maxium on and the ther
mostat doesnlt trigger ?
and so the heater is on for
Sorry I don't understand the calculation where does 17 come into it and whe
re does 9 and the x 2 come into it.
Lets just keep it simple with ONE radiator that is 2KW.
ened 16C as stated in the 1992 factories act section 7.
yes I know and it makes me wonder what sort of genious has decided to orde
r them about 20 was the last count, still waiting for them to arrive.
mory as I can't find the paper I wrote it down on a few days ago.
I too started thinking logically, but the facts showed something else.
So why was it showing 705W ?
turns naround to check actually it's currently 718W
This is my question.
So far I've tested 3 and they are all very similar so I doubt it's a faulty
elivered but look the same with very similar specs and look pretty much the
On Thu, 9 Nov 2017 06:31:00 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
<snip bits Andy has since answered>
Well, their suitability could be down to the side effects of the
alternatives. Like, if you were to use IR / radiant heaters they could
be considered a fire risk and an industrial blower / fan heater could
be too noisy. Decent central heating would be best but obviously not
on the hurry up..
<snip> >> 2kW (if I understand it right and how I would expect it to work
So are you asking why it's currently showing ~700 W or why it's
fluctuating around 700W
If it's the latter than the measured power will be a function of the
supply voltage (that you have already told us fluctuates) and the
resistance will change with temperature that may also account for some
Cheers, T i m
On Thu, 9 Nov 2017 08:15:34 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
Sounds like it's the upper limit stat that is cutting in and out on
the bigger element (only) ... before the main stat cuts everything
out? Do you have a IR thermometer? If so it might be interesting to
see what surface temperatures these clicks and measurements apply to.
If they are keeping them I'd be inclined to open one up and make a
wiring diagram (or see if there is one in there or in the manual).
Cheers, T i m
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.