Slow superglue

There used to be a whole range of cynocrylate glues under the Loctite brand, some slower, but many only for temporary gluing as well. It was bewildering. Brian

You are better off with TiO2 loaded epoxy for mending china. Otherwise you will always see dark lines where the cracks were. Aldi/Lidl have it in stock from time to time if you can't DIY your own with pigments.

Superglue has a nasty habit of misting onto fingerprints.

You think Chris borrowed / stole the vase from somewhere, broke it by accident and now, racked with guilt, wants to fix it before putting it back? ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Dont use superglue. Use epoxy and a warm oven to aid setting

Someone downthread posters a slow superglue...

Maybe look at the UV-hardening glues as well? Not used any, but there are on sale with little video screens showing lots of adjustment and then fixing the glue with a flash from a UV "torch" (button cell with a UV LED, I think).

Thomas Prufer

Acactually you have been watching too many CSIs, however it does mist and can be used to get fingerprints off of difficult substances. Don't breathe in the fumes and always do the misting inside of a sealed container. Brian

Well, epoxy is more reliable than cyanoacrylate, but in my experience still has a tendency to colour with time. That light brown colour sticks out like a sore thumb on white china!

My point was that it can affect the surface finish of glass or pottery.

Which is why you should use the formulation loaded with TiO2 white pigment sold for pottery repairs or if you have the pigment DIY.

I've been looking at these, any comments? I suspect they would *not* be so good for ceramic repairs as the light has to penetrate the "long" way (unless they are autocatalytic).

Send it in to the Repair Shop, that woman who does the ceramics has done some cracking (excuse the pun) repair jobs! You just need to come up with a suitable sob story.

Richard

The stuff they use for dental fillings might do, white in colour and set with a UV flash.

I use microballoons to turn it white..looks like white china when set

setting epoxy under heat already discolors it as much as it ever will.

If you remove from oven when half set and rubbery it's easy to remove any surplus.

after setting it cam be rubbed down with 600 grit or so wet and dry.

Makes practically perfect repairs

I asked my dentist about this stuff last time. He told me what it was, Poly- something something something something, too much for me to memorise. It is incredibly expensive. This may just be the "medical" markup or it may be different to the uv-setting resins sold with the cheaper kits.

I still suspect that it may not be much good for cracks as opposed to holes. For deeper cavities they do it in two or three goes.

Most, possibly all, now sets in blue light - not UV.

White fillings used to rely on acid etching the tooth, applying a thin bonding layer and setting that with UV to provide a base for the filling. The strength of the bond to the tooth was physical rather than chemical and depended on the etched surface. I don't know how that'd work for surfaces which resist acid; or for bonding /2/ surfaces where (as mentioned already) the UV won't reach.

Scope for someone to develop a bonding agent that cures by neutrino flux (with slow cure almost guaranteed)?

Off of? Who are you, Dolly Parton?

The clever bit will be deflecting the neutrinoes round the tube of glue in storage.