Simple Stud Wall Question

[Thomarse]

Is it sufficient to build a timber frame partition wall from 2.5" x

1" (63mm x 26mm) and 12mm plasterboard. In terms of being strong enough and passing building regs, the usual etc.

Tom

[The Natural Philosopher]

I wouldn't have said so.

Not sure there are any regs for a non structural partition wall..

But anything less than 2x2 is likely to fall down if you lean against it ;-)

3x2 or 4x2 is more normal.

And 15mm plasterboard

Of course if its a very *small* wall, you can bend the accepted norms towards what will fit.

[The Medway Handyman]

I'd agree with the 3 x 2 or 4 x 2 but 15mm platerboard? Didn't know it existed, never seen it in the sheds?

[The Natural Philosopher]

Oh? Pretty sure thats what I have..maybe I am wrong..

[TMC]

Lafarge list 12.5 15 and 19 mm

[Thomarse]

Hi,

I have bought 12.5mm plasterboard..Didnt realise there was anything larger.

The reason I asked about the timer was thet I ordered 50 x 75mm which is basically 3 x 2" more or less... However, having had it delivered today, it is actually 38 x 63mm (2.5 x 1.5") nd is CLS timber? any idea what the CLS stands for... I am a little confused as on the delivery note it has the 2 x 3" size and the CLS 2.5 x 1.5 - why have they put 2 sizes for the same timber? Im not in the trade, so am a little confused by the sizes.

It is a large(ish) wall I am building 3.6m x 2.5m high with a door..

thanks again

tom

[TMC]

Look at

would go for the 100 * 50 anyway for stud walls even more so as you are fitting a door in it

100 * 50 would be the sawn size then it loses at least 6mm each way for planing and a bit more for drying

Tony

[The Medway Handyman]

CLS is Canadian Lumber Standard. Maybe the 2. x 1.5 is the finished size?

[Thomarse]

Yea, it looks as though the 2 sizes are the sawn timber size and teh finished timber sizes.... A little confusing for me quoting 2 sizes, a s a newbie!

So.. I guess the next obvious questions is.... is 2.5" x 1.5" CLS studwork timber the equivalent of 3" x 2" sawn timber?, same strength qualities etc? Seeing as when you ask for 3 x 2 they recommend the CLS equivalant?

[Tony Bryer]

I wouldn't have thought so, though you might just get away with it if you glued the whole lot together to make a composite panel and it was not in a location liable to be knocked etc.

[Andy Hall]

Yes, but if you can, go and select it yourself even then.

[Tony Bryer]

They used to (still?) make 19mm plasterboard. It was used in a space saving partitioning system. You fix 19mm wide timber guide strips to the walls, floor and ceiling bounding the partition and the 19mm plasterboards are cut to fit between these. Then 9.5 (or it may have been 12.5) plasterboard is glued on either side (staggered joints obviously) to give a no-stud thin (but reasonably fire and sound proof) partition.

[The Medway Handyman]

AFAIK CLS timber is designed for studwork & is stronger because of it's knot free nature.

[Andy Hall]

Probably true. At least it is to a defect level so if one is sizing according to a set of rules, presumably this is taken into account.

[meow2222]

Not really. A wall made of 2.5x1.5 CLS will flap like a flapper when you close the door unless you can fix top and bottom plates in place all along their length - and one often cant. Depends on joist positions above. And then you'll end up with crap sound insulation. Yes it works, but no you wont get a decent wall. If you want to use that stuff for a better result, gluing 2 strips together to get bigger wood would really help.

I'd always go with 12mm not 9 PB, trivial cost difference and a fair bit tougher.

More info on these walls:

2x3 sawn is indeed 2x3. When they plane it to make PAR or PSE, it gets smaller, but is still called 2x3, even though it no longer is.

NT

[Thomarse]

walls:

> BTW 2x3 sawn is indeed 2x3. When they plane it to make PAR or PSE, it

Thanks for the advice and the link was very useful! Ive been trying to find info like that for a while and couldnt!!

If I add and extra row or 2 of noggins, so I have 2 or 3 rows instead of 1 row and have more uprights in the frame? will this compensate for strength? I will be securing the top and bottom plates along their length as I have added cross noggings in the ceiling between beams..

Sound proofing isnt really a problem as the room will be a nursery and no amount of wall thicknesss will stop baby cries waking me in the night!

[meow2222]

walls:

> > BTW 2x3 sawn is indeed 2x3. When they plane it to make PAR or PSE, it

Not really, no. I had assumed you'd be using 1 row of noggins, 2 or 3 wont help much more.

Well, that makes such thin wood an option, but it wont be a particularly good wall.

The original wall suggestion will sound like theyre all in the same room. It sounds like you'll seriously need decent sound insulation.

Why do you want a wall so thin? Rooms would have to be very small for wall thickness to make a noticeable difference. If I were building a nursery room I'd be taking sound insulation seriously rather than disregard it.

If money's really tight and you dont want to buy any more wood, bear in mind a) your CLS can be glued to make 2.5 x 3, which would behave a fair bit better. b) some pretty rough material can be pressed into service if need be.

NT

[Thomarse]

walls:

> > > BTW 2x3 sawn is indeed 2x3. When they plane it to make PAR or PSE, it

I've taken the advce in here and swapped the timber.. I now have 4x2 cls timber - so hopefully an all round stronger build! Thanks for making me see sense!

Tom