Shower base reinforcement..

Measuring up to install the shower tray this afternoon I was reminded that one of the supporting legs will be perilously close to the corner of a relatively unsupported 22mm chipboard sheet. Simply pressing down with an agricultural foot leads to creaks and movement.
The build up is concrete base, dpm,40mm PIR foam, 3mm foam underlay and then 22mm flooring grade chip. Too late to go back and channel the concrete for the shower waste.
Ideas so far... bunch of fully threaded woodscrews with the tips squared off and carefully measured to just reach the concrete. Won't do the dpm much good but...
Undermining the foam and filling with cement slurry. Corner location with only 10 to 15mm edge clearance.
Stiff metal sheet with folded edges to screw to wall studs and flooring.
Any other suggestions/experience?
--
Tim Lamb

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On 08/04/2018 16:53, Tim Lamb wrote:

Why are your cows in the bathroom :-)
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Size 11 wellie actually:-)
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Tim Lamb

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More likely its sheep. You have heard of sheep dip?
This is the free range luxury version with conditioner for a better fleece look. Brian
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On 08/04/2018 16:53, Tim Lamb wrote:

1. Core drill right through to the slab, say 3 inches diam and pour in a strong concrete mix, like self levelling compo. Do this at each corner and in the middle, so that the shower base sits on these piles.
2. Get a slab of 25 mm marine ply the exact size and shape of the tray and glue to the floor with waterproof pva.
3. Forget the shower base, overlay with waterproof ply and have a wet room. ?
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Hmm.. The tray has 7 adjustable legs which should take my 92kg comfortably. Just one vulnerable corner.

I need this done for tomorrow morning!

Ah. Got one of those or will have once I have summoned the courage to lay the tiles. I wonder how Tim Watts got on with his?

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Tim Lamb

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On Sunday, 8 April 2018 16:53:14 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:

If you use screws, which I wouldn't, make them salt resistant ss.
NT
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com writes

Oh. We will use an ion exchange water softener but I expect this to be a dry area.
Job done. I used self drilling TEK roofing screws as all my wood screws have plain shanks. One directly under the corner leg and one each side. Knowing when the screw hit the concrete was tricky using power tools.

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Tim Lamb

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On Sunday, 8 April 2018 20:24:04 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:

those put sodium ions into the water, making it more corrosive. A lot of ss is not salt resistant. Cleaning products also add corrosives.

I hope it works. I would have reservations about relying on it.
NT
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Right angle bracket screwed from above into the chipboard, and screwed into the studs. As chipboard is not that strong, can you use a plasterboard fixing or summat?
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On 08/04/2018 20:17, Tim Lamb wrote:

After more thought I would have used a long frame anchors with a cadmium plated screw in the centre of each foot. Drill right through into the slab far enough to end up flush with the floor surface. Squirt some silicone down the hole to seal before pushing in the frame anchor and tightening.
Sounds like you did the same with those TEK screws.
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Umm.. TEK screws are plated with something (silver finish) but I have seen some rusty ones on my barns. Oh well. It should see me out:-)
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