Sharpening a curved drawknife query

Jul 18, 2024 Last reply: 2 years ago 10 Replies

I have a drawknife with a curve in the blade. It’s bevelled on both sides. It has a long bevel about an inch in width on the side that runs along the wood and a short bevel about ¼” wide on the upper face.



A bit like this one.

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Being curved means that I can’t use a conventional flat whetstone on it, or at least not on the concave upper side, only on the convex lower side.



Any tips on the best way to sharpen it?



I have coarse and fine lozenge-shaped stones for my scythe.



Tim


Er -- why not? Work the flat stone along the bevel(s)?

It's what I do...

Thomas Prufer

A flat stone on a concave blade with only touch the blade along the edges of the stone surely?

Tim

Um that’s a flat blade with a curved edge, not a blade that’s curved along its length (as clearly illustrated in the link I posted).

Tim

That's a slightly aggressive response to someone who tried to help, and I doubt you would respond like that if we were face-to-face. Anyway, the tools shown on that link are applicable to a draw knife, as you will see if you try a search for "how to sharpen a draw knife", or similar.

This a standard non-straight drawknife:

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I'm now thinking you may have one that's bent between the handles?

In which case I'd use a buffing wheel charged with compound, a strop, or a round whetstone.

Thomas Prufer

Correct, but the narrower the stone the closer the contact points. I'm guessing the the curvature is only slight so a slip stone or small flat stone (used width ways) should do the job.

If you go to the other extreme you get a scorp -

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Tim+ snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.individ ual.net:

Not exactly your application but when I wanted to supersharpen a curved blade I created a jig that held the blade fixed and had an arm with a radius matching the curve of the blade pivoted at the 'focal point' of the blade curve. The sharpening stone was fixed to the pivot arm and the fixed relationship between the stone and the blade meant that many hundreds of strokes could be applied at exactly right angle, eliminating the risk that a foul swipe could dull the blade. Making the pivot end of the jig height adjustable allowed for fine adjustment of the sharpening angle to match the existing shape.

A gently curved stone would make sense for your application.

Hopefully that makes sense.

I found a video where a fellow sharpened a scorp with a shaped piece of wood, wet&dry stuck or tacked to the wood. Shaped like a long rounded file -- that would allow for any convex profile, without the expense of a long stone.

Thomas Prufer

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