Scribing coving

[GMM]

I need to fit a length of coving along a wall that already has the same coving on each end wall. Normally, I would mitre but that's not possible with the others in situ. Nonetheless, it should work fine if I cut it to the right length and scribe the right profile at each end.

So what's the problem? Well, when scribing skirting for example, it's (relatively) easy to transfer the profile as the face of a board is close to flat, but the curve of the coving makes this damned near impossible.

Does anyone have a clever trick for this, or is it just a case of guess it and use plenty of filler when it goes belly up?

[Cash]

Cut a 45 degree mitre as you normally would, and at the root of the mitre you will see the exact shape that you need to cut. Using something like a coping saw, follow that profile - and the coving will fit over the other one. Measure the distance from root to root of the existing coving, mark the mitre exactly as you would normally (from the root to the end) and do the same there.

Cash

[The Medway Handyman]

Exactly right. Depending on the length though, it might be easier to profile the end of two lengths & then join them with a mitre.

[GMM]

Cash, That sounds like the voice of an expert, so now for the question of an idiot: What do you mean by the root of the mitre? I'm sure it's the right technical term, but googling only seems to use it, not define it!

Cheers!

[Cash]

When you cut the mitre from the face to the back - you end up with the 'pointy bit' at the top (end of the coving) - t'other end is the root.

If you are still having problems, I'll try and show you with a couple of photos (I can't do this at the moment as the old computer is slaving away backing up several gigabytes of photographs on a USB memory stick).

Cash

[John Rumm]

If you look at the piccies here:

step two, the root is the bit nearest you - you can see the right hand side of the blue section exactly describes the cut you need.

[Cash]

Thanks, for showing GMM that John, it makes life a lot easier than trying to describe it. (I normally show people how to do it practically, it's easier).

Cash

[GMM]

Ahh...Now I'm with you! Thanks chaps.......Although I'm still trying to transpose that onto the coving situation, where the curves kind of go in t'other direction. It almost looks like cutting a 45degree mitre then trimming off the taper through the thickness of the material should do the job. I wouldn't normally be so cautious/ calculating, but I have about 6 inches of spare on the piece of coving I have before I have to go and shell out on another pack and, being a tightwad, don't want to have to make another donation to Wickes on this particular job. The Duropolymer stuff is very good, but not the cheapest thing in the shop...

[Cash]

GMM,

Your - " It almost looks like cutting a 45degree mitre then trimming off the taper through the thickness of the material should do the job" - is precisely that, and believe it or not, it really is easy to do. Just follow the instructions and diagrams in the link that John Rumm gave.

To "transpose that onto the coving situation" - just work out how the mitres would have gone had you been putting up all the coving from 'scratch' and that will be the 'cut'.

*Tip* - if you have a spare length (or two) of skirting board or similar with any type of mould on (from a simple round edge to a complex moulding), then use that to practice on as the method will be exactly the same.

Best of luck with the job

Cash

[Cash]

GMM,

To add to that, if you can pop into the likes of B & Q (or even Wickes) and pick up a length or two of their cheapest coving just to practise on - then that would be even better.

Cash

(Who pressed the send button before he finished the last post) :-)

[John Rumm]

Yup it is. With the coving, cut it using a jig or template as usual, like you were going to do an internal mitre. Then just cut back the pointed edge following the line described by the junction between the front face and the cut you just made.

You could always get a length of plaster coving to practice on - wickes sell em individually and quite cheap IIRC.

[GMM]

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A good plan, from two sources at the same time! I think I'll give the dry run a go on the very end of the length I have though - If the missus sees me carting another type of coving into the house, she'll just think I'm trying to put even more half-used stuff in the garage as part of my shed justification! (Bet none of you lot ever had to justify a shed, did you?)

Thanks again chaps - Now I'm just banking on Cash's 'it really is easy to do' !