It's time to try and get everything running on my Win 10 PRO/32 m/c on my 'new' HP AIO running Win 10 Home/64
When I first got it home I tried to install Lightroom V3 from the CD rom but Win10 refused. Now that I have installed an SSD and installed the latest version of Win 10Home/64 it read the Adobe Elements V9 CD rom and installed it quite happily, but it has installed it under Program Files(x86)>Adobe
I then tried to install Lightroom 3 again and this time it installed it as Lightroom V3 (64 bit) which is a bit of a surprise, I thought the 64 bit versions of LR were 4,5 and 6.
The installation is under Program Files>Adobe.
Here is the problem though, I have V3.6 on my 32 bit Win 10Pro m/c and it is no longer possible to download any updates from Adobe for this version.
Is this the installer code ?. Dare I copy this to the download directory on my Win 10 64 m/c and run it ?. This was downloaded from Adobe so I don't know if the 'check for updates' button in LR told the Adobe servers to supply a
32 bit upgrade, or if it is a combined 32/64 update.
Open with 7ZIP. I'm using 7ZIP version 19.00 , which is pretty well feature complete. Later versions might be safer when using crypto during compression.
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7-ZIP has a context menu (right-click). If I right-click the lightroom file, and select "open archive" from the 7-ZIP menu, this is the structure.
By extracting "setup32.exe" into a separate spot, if you run that, that would force a 32-bit installation. If instead, you ran "Install Lightroom 3.exe" from the level above, the automation will sniff the 64-bit OS you're running and install the 64 bit version. By using 7-ZIP, you have all the control you need, of the situation.
I haven't tested this, but that's the general first-impression from a look.
Very odd as the compatibility folder for 32 bit is as you surmised, so unless the item really does have a 64 bit version, then its cocked it up. Normally of course if a company wants an upgrade fee, it will only update as far as the end of a version. Brian
Great. Thanks for that, I'll just copy it over and run it.
Next 'problem' is that I signed up for OneDrive and the LR install put three files into the OneDrive folder, when I fact I want them on the E: (data) drive. 5Gb doesn't go very far where Lightroom is concerned.
(still looking on the www for a 2nd hand copy of LR V6.3, the last one-time purchase version available).
Also, judging by the pristine condition inside this PC, (and the fact that the CR2032 measured 14.2 millivolts !!) I conclude that it has had very little use, so I intend to stick the original WD blue 1Tb drive in a caddy with a USB3 connector. In fact I would quite like a double caddy and put the 24x dvd writer from my Win10 Pro/32 m/c in there too. Is this possible, running off 1 USB3 connector ?. I suspect not.
I installed Elements V9 first because I had previously tried to run the LR CD when the HP PC had the version of Win 10 Home available in 2020 and a box appeared in the middle of the screen saying something like "Version not supported".
After Elements installed OK (with the current version of Win 10) I tried the LR CD again, almost out of interest and bingo, it installed.
The Elements V9 box says "1.6GHz CPU needed and Win XP with service pack 2 or 3, Vista or Win 7", so must be 32 bit code if it runs on XP.
Electrically it's doable, but you either need a USB to SATA converter with two SATA ports (never seen one) or two converters with a USB hub. The latter might be doable, given sufficient space to fit it all inside.
I've not seen a 'double caddy' enclosure though, and even 5.25" external ones are uncommon these days.
Getting a separate USB DVD writer and a 3.5" USB caddy might be easier.
However, thinking inside the (other) box a bit, how about using the old PC as a caddy? i.e. it is a box with drive slots and a PSU. You could just use USB to SATA plug in adaptors, and a hub, or connect to it via ethernet and allow it to run as a NAS box (either running windows or something like FreeNAS)
I'm rather more interested in retiring it completely, and getting an M2 mac mini to save space. It has a noisy CPU fan and blows dust around my small 3rd bedroom/office. The only reason to keep it is because it has a firewire port which I still use occasionally. The mac mini should do the same (with a stack of adapters - we'll see).
The HP i3 AIO bought from a BHF shop is a bonus, it means takes up less space and means I keep a win xx m/c for those occasions when I need it.
I have a WD MyCloud device anyway but it only has a single 1tb drive and tbh I only use it as a network backup device for the moment.
I also have a LAcie 5.25 250Gb USB2 external drive. I might try and get inside it and substitute the existing drive for the redundant 1tb WD blue out of the HP AIO, but I cannot see any screws that hold the case together. I lifted off one of its sticky foot pads and there is nothing below.
ANother issue with re-installed Win 10 on the HP AIO is that it nagged me for my email address which now appears as the username on the lock screen, with a pin and not a passwword. I notice that my email address is now the owner of the files created by adobe elements and Lightroom. What I want to do is create a user name and password, but presumably I need to change the ownership of all the files created so far ?. Not sure what to do here.
Windows likes to get you to sign up for a MS account - that then gets slapped all over the place...
If you create yourself a local account with admin rights, you can copy the files you want into it's documents folder, and then delete the MS account (or you can unlink it with a bit of faffing)
Easiest and fastest way to create local accounts without having to setup daft decurity questions etc is from the command line. Open a command prompt with admin priveledges (type CMD in the start menu to find it - then right click and run as administrator). Now create a new account with:
net user /add username password
Give it admin capability:
net localgroup administrators /add username
job done, you can then logout and log back in. You can use admin priviledge to copy stuff from elsewhere in the \Users\ folder.
"If you have Windows 10 Pro, setting up a local account is much easier. During the setup process, you will see a screen that offers two options:
Set up for personal use and Set up for an organization.
Assuming this is a personal computer and not a work PC, choose Set up for personal use."
[ "Offline Account" in the lower left corner ]
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You can also play with the network cable, at a "critical time" with respect to that dialog. Unplugging the cable, prevents it from reaching home base. However, I've had one install (could have been Win11 Home), where the unplugged cable, it would have waited forever for me to plug it back in.
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On Windows 11, there are some more complicated procedures for bypassing the email-address related account requirement. The methods don't work forever, and Microsoft will try to plug them.
The thing is, the home directory is stamped with a part of your email address, which is a highly undesirable choice. Then, when you're trying to take screenshots of stuff, there is an endless amount of dribble to blot out of the picture.
A file can have multiple owners. A file can use a SID which is not present on the current computer and it just shows the SID numeric value instead of a "name". The "TakeOwn" procedure, allows adding owners. Some TakeOwn procedures are implicit - if you belong to the Admin group and you visit User#2 home directory, it will "stamp" all the files with your ownership and let you in. Same goes for "foreign" drives being plugged into a USB port, they can have implicit permissions stamped on them as well. You might see a green bar at the top of the File Explorer window while this runs.
If it wasn't for the implicit feature that lets you into stuff, you'd be doing this. Note: DO NOT do this to the C: drive, OK ? This is reserved for data-only partitions. And not a lark - only when something is broken.
itsmine.cmd D:\
******* itsmine.cmd ******* takeown /f %1 /r /d y icacls %1 /grant administrators:F /t
[ material from:
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The "icacls" command can record all permissions on a drive, and the permissions can be played back later. This allows fixing "damage" on a drive.
If you replace the blank line at the top of the "C-perms.txt" file with a single "." character, the permissions can even be applied to the entire drive. Normally, getting the detail at the very top of the drive right, is a problem with this method. Editing the top line, can fix it. Then
icacls c:\ /restore "C-perms.txt"
puts the permissions back.
Permissions don't amount to a whole lot -- to protect content, use cryptography. For example, I can smash all the permissions on a drive, by backing up with Macrium, then browse the backups, select the latest backup, use the "Mount" option, tick the box to "remove restrictions" and all the files can be read. Now, since this is a backup, the things they really don't want you to have, aren't in the .mrimg file in the first place. This is why the contents of System Volume Information are safe, because the contents are not complete. (I once ruined a Windows 7 C:\ , by accessing something I wasn't supposed to, and the C: content was unrecoverable afterwards. This is why those ticklish bits have to be kept out of reach in there :-) Nobody believes me, but that's fine. Macrium knows what not to touch and shadow copies are not in a backup.)
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Doing it that way, is a "convenience", not a hack. You're not really accomplishing anything. But if you want to look around, that can save you some time messing with stuff.
Win 10 is easier, but Win 11 home tries really hard to limit you to a MS account. Just unplugging the network lead does not work with that - it demands to connect to a network.
Forcing open a command prompt during install (CTRL F10) will however let you do a "ipconfig /release" which does (or at least did), let you convince it that it has a network connection, but can't for some reason see the MS server, so then lets you do a local one)
(11 pro will let you go down the domain join route and do one that way)
Of course you can install 10, then let it upgrade to 11 - you keep the local accounts that way.
£49 in Feb 2010. Only powered up occasionally to save windows disk images of C and D (because I went through a phase of installing all the applications in the D: partition, with data in E:
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There are two slots underneath immediately behind the font panel that would take a small flat blade screwdriver. Bit reluctant to force the front panel off without knowing how it unclicks, which it must.
I think they look the same, although the ones made in USB1 days (the 90s) might have been made to looser tolerances. If there's any writing on it, it might say 'Hi-Speed' or '2.0' as clues. Generally anything made this century is likely to be 2.0.
Win 10 home you used to be able to just go the "I don't have internet" option. If that is not still the case, then do the ipconfig /release hack I mentioned elsewhere.
USB 1.1 are divided into two types. There is a lower speed and a higher speed version. The lower speed cabling can be thinner, as it makes no pretense as to transmission line behavior. I believe some early keyboards may have had captive thin cable on them.
"Low Bandwidth at 1.5 Mbps or Full Bandwidth at 12 Mbps"
There aren't many references left, with all the details in convenient form either.
The A to B cable that came with my Epson Perfection photo 1200 flatbed scanner (1998) is a sort of cream colour and is not exactly 'spindly' so I assume that it is good for USB2 speeds.
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