7/32" Forstner Bit?

Ken Johnsen wrote: > I need to drill 7/32" holes within an eight inch of each other. With my > normal bits Iget splintering in between the holes. A forstner bit would > prevent this but my smallst is 1/4". Does anyone know if 7/32" forstner bits > are available? A google search didn't show any results

Have you looked at and/or tested a brad point drill?

What kind of wood is splintering?

Lew

Lew

Where is the splintering? If it's tearing out on exit, well, a Forstner bit will do that, too. You have to back it with a sacrificial block or use a brad point bit and drill just until the point penetrates the other side, then turn the work over and finish the hole from there. The backer block is easier.

I am using a brad point. I've been working with cherry.

Ken

I'm not drilling through the wood. I have 3/32 to 1/8" between holes. It's the top of the wood between the holes that is chipping and splintering

Ken

Ah, OK. Having never had that problem or drilled a series of holes so close together, I'll have to defer to someone else.

Couple of thoughts.

Can you turn the piece over and drill adjacent holes from alternate sides using a backer block?

Make sure drill is VERY sharp so it won't tear.

I'm out of ideas.

Lew

Try a layer of tape pressed firmly on top of the work piece before drilling. I'd pull the tape off in a direction perpendicular to the grain.

How about making a plastic template as you might use for adjustable shelves, but with the dimensions you need. You could then use a plunge router with a

Tin Woodsmn

I don't know of a forstner bit that size.

How about clamping a sacrificial board on top and drilling thru both at the same time? This way the sacrificial board gets the tear out as it protects your project board.

Art

Ken a couple of suggestions:

1. If the piece your drilling the holes in is not part of something already and you're milling your lumber - leave it a tad thick, drill the holes, then plane to desired thickness.

1. Someone suggested tape and that may work but for holes that close together, I kinda doubt it will be 100%. What I have done is to apply some finish to the stock (shellac, poly, whatever) to help hold the fibers and then use a template (3/4" thick board, with hole/s in it clamped tightly to work piece).

2. Failing the above - just because the situation won't allow it, try dampening the wood with a damp sponge of water, or you could use mineral spirits too. This works when planing wood to reduce tearout due to grain changes and may work on this.

Bob S.

...

I see elsewhere you're using a brad point bit.

1. If it's a cheapie from the local Best Buy, get a good one to start with. (Amana's Timberline is one I've been pleased with).
2. Failing 1), sharpen the one you have.
3. _Then_ the tape trick may help a little but should be unneeded.

Regarding the other question, I think I have seen some Forstner's in

Another possiblility would be to use a plunge router and a 2-flute (again, good quality) router bit.

spin the bit you have faster, feed slower and back out often to clear chips. and do all of this on the drill press with the wood clamped down. and make sure the bit is sharp.

I don't know about the 7/32" forstners, but a good quality, _sharp_ brad point whoud do what you want.

Ken

Get the best bit you can to drill the holes. Do some trial holes in scrap.

Use a sacfifical board as another suggested.

Drill the first hole and fill it with tight fitting dowel. Drill the second hole. Then punch out the dowel in the first hole.

Bob AZ

Thanks for all the suggestions, a lot I never thought of. I'll give each a try to see what works best for me

Ken

If you have a plunge router, use a 7/32 staight bit. Set up a table using a guide board for one axis and stops for the graduations between holes. The router will cut them clean as a whistle. And, if you set-up as above it will be quicker than drilling.

Let us know what works...

And what doesn't work...