I want to route ethernet cable to a few rooms in a fairly small house.
Taking up floors is not an option because of wood flooring and I don't
want visible cable although routing cable around skirting boards may be
the easiest eventual solution.
There are aerial points in the house and the cable is routed within the
plasterboard wall of the timber frame house.
If the coax cabling is successfully dropping from the attick to the
ground floor through the wall (and from the attic to other rooms) I am
guessing that there is a clear channel within the plasterboard walls
which in theory I could squeeze the ethernet cable into.
Has anyone done this?
Presumably I would need an ethernet router in the attic to split the
single feed cable from the main modem/router into individual feeds.
Network switch on one port of a router?
Depends whether super duper high speed is needed on all ports at the
sometime of course.
As for cable routing. Well, I'd not really like running network cables for
long distances near coax as things tend to leak and cause interference
effects. Besides, its so easy to damage existing cables by trying to get
just one more through the same holes!
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
In the attic you want a gigabit switch not a router. They are low power,
small and cost about £20 for an 8 port one.
I actually run my ethernet cables through the loft and down the outside
of the house. Some people suggest this is bad due to lightening risk or
some such. I've had no problems in the 10 years I've done it.
With gigabit cables you have to be careful not to kink the wire or have
corner bends in it. There is a minimum radius for every bend, something
like 20mm, but you should look it up. If you do have sharp bends or
kinks it will reduce the speed to 100Mb/s.
Good practice to avoid kinks etc. certainty, but Gigabit Ethernet is a
lot more resilient than you make out.
Think about an RJ45 patch panel, or a wall-plate. Doesn't the cable
terminate in the Krone strip at 90 deg to the socket? And aren't the
pairs effectively not twisted throughout the plug/socket interface?
So how does that differ from a 90 deg kink in the cable? (Apart from
the risk of breaking one or more conductors especially with solid
Yes, I used the old coax cable to pull down a new coax + cat 5 cable.
In the attic I was able to see how much free space there was in the
trunking. It did get a bit stuck around the ground floor ceiling.
I wanted to use best quality tv coax for the then weak digital TV
You may also be able to see the space could also see the space be
examining the wall box for the ground floor TV socket
I run two 100mbps connections down one cable and one of those has to be
connected to a switch. None of the attached equipment needs gigabit,
but I do run gigabit over another length of cable from the same drum.
It worked once I discarded an unsatisfactory patch lead.
When I wired my house. I initially only got 100Mb/s. I had to search to
eliminate bends and kinks before it ran at 1Gb/s. That was ten years ago
maybe equipment is better now but I doubt it. It was solid cat 5e cable,
maybe 40m long. I can't remember the degree of the kinks or bends. I
only remember that it didn't work at full speed until I got rid of them.
I don't know why it didn't work at full speed with kinks, but it didn't.
In fact I have.
Internal studowrk walls are hollow, and what I did was open up holes in
the plasterboard where I had to, and feed stiff wire leaders through
Making good plasterboard is very easy. Simply stuff the hole with
newspaper, stick and gob fresh plaster in the hole. then sand it all
flat and paint to match.
Never be afraid to rip out huge chunks of plasterboard and then put it
back - it mends invisibly really.
No. A *switch*.Preferably 100mbps or even gigabit
No Apple devices were knowingly used in the preparation of this post.
You mean use and existing cable to pull through more? Yup it can work.
Tie some string to the end of the coax and pull that back. Then pull
through as much string again and tie it in the middle to the coax so you
can pull that back to where it was while sill keeping two ends of string
accessible. Then use the middle of that to pull in your new wires.
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