Roof tiles and new roof?

House was built in 1928 and have noticed that the condition of the tiles on the south facing side of the ridge have deteriorated and are more brittle that on the north facing. There is no sagging of the rafters.

Is this a common situation and should I realistically be looking to retile the whole roof with new battens?

And if I put Tyvek on, can I get rid of the soffit vents that were insisted upon by the Buildings Inspector when the loft conversion was done?

Reply to
letshaveit
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on the south facing side of the ridge have deteriorated and are more brittl e that on the north facing. There is no sagging of the rafters.

e the whole roof with new battens?

ed upon by the Buildings Inspector when the loft conversion was done?

No one can say without seeing them. Some older tiles are still available but a few odd replacements take a long tiome to weather.

Have other similar houses nearby been retiled? How long are you planning on staying?

It's normal to put in new battens when retiling. The nails rust apart from anything else. It won't be cheap, especially if a non-bungalow (more scaffolding) and if lots of tiles are to cut.

Roof ventilation is always needed. Nowadays there are systems to ventilate at the ridges and at the eves.

Reply to
harry

On Thursday 21 February 2013 09:15 snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I believe so - my BCO was happy with the Tyvek only solution.

Reply to
Tim Watts

On Thursday 21 February 2013 09:34 harry wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Not with a breathable membrane, generally.

Reply to
Tim Watts

the south facing side of the ridge have deteriorated and are more brittle that on the north facing. There is no sagging of the rafters.

whole roof with new battens?

I was told that the roof tiles on my 1931 house had a 60 year expected life. I am considering doing something about them soon.

Colin Bignell

Reply to
Nightjar

It will be a waste of time and money repairing a tiled roof 85 years old. It will be an endless job every year repairing. Take it off including the tile battens and re tile. Use a good quality underlay breather membrane, treated battens and clay pla in tiles, there are at lest 3 names in clay tiles, Hawkins, Rosemary and Ac me. I personally don?t like Tyvek, I prefer Roofshield, its the only one that ?s got the full certificate, No need for vents tiles or sofit vents. And use a good mix of mortar 2sand 1cement stiff mix

Reply to
Kipper at sea

You can rejuvenate it a bit - but only really a limited number of times before it becomes a full time activity. So if its not have much attention so far, then replacing all the dodgy tiles a alone will add a few more years. Check the battens are up to the job of supporting people romping about the roof first though.

Yes.

Reply to
John Rumm

I'd still put in some ventilation, there can be a heck of a lot of condensation on the underside of our "breathable membrane". Enough to drip off...

I guess if you use a none permiable plasterboard for the ceilings (foil backed) and make sure all the cable holes are sealed you might not get much moisture migrating into the loft to not need ventilation but not on the average house.

Not sure how much ventilation I'd put in maybe up to 1/4 of that required for a roof with a non breathable membrane.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Someone once told me that with slate roofs you could stick bits of (IIRC) copper wire onto each slate underneath using glue, and screw each wire to a rafter :) I suppose theoretically its possible :)

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Reply to
Java Jive

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