Roller garage doors. good? bad?

Hi

Am in the process of rebuilding my garage and have been looking at roller d oors.

Garador and Alluguard have caught my eye after fairly inadequate searching.

Does anyone have an experience of them or other suppliers or makes?

Alluguard is more attractive to me because they have a stockist quite close to me. They want ~ £1,500 for a 3m (w) x 2.4m (h) door which seems good value.

TI

Richard

Reply to
RJS
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Am in the process of rebuilding my garage and have been looking at roller doors.

Garador and Alluguard have caught my eye after fairly inadequate searching.

Does anyone have an experience of them or other suppliers or makes?

Alluguard is more attractive to me because they have a stockist quite close to me. They want ~ 1,500 for a 3m (w) x 2.4m (h) door which seems good value.

Make sure the front wall of your garage is at right angles to to the side walls. I had no idea mine was some 10 degrees out until the fitters discovered it. Luckily there was just enough space for the tracks - they were touching one side wall and a foot clear on the other side !

Reply to
Jim Hawkins

Thanks Jim

Garage is being built to suit the door. I will ensure that the piers etc a re square and plumb. It seems that the roller doors fit on the inside of t he piers, which looks to make installation less complicated.

What doors did you install?

Rgds

Richard

Reply to
RJS

Had a roller door in a house which we bought. There was no seal (about a 20cm gap) between the door left on the roller and the lintel. Check on whether thev garage will be relatively windproof when the door is dowm

Malcolm

Reply to
Malcolm Race

lose to me. They want ~ £1,500 for a 3m (w) x 2.4m (h) door which seems good value.

Thanks Malcolm

Good point.

Richard

Reply to
RJS

Am in the process of rebuilding my garage and have been looking at roller doors.

Garador and Alluguard have caught my eye after fairly inadequate searching.

Does anyone have an experience of them or other suppliers or makes?

Alluguard is more attractive to me because they have a stockist quite close to me. They want ~ 1,500 for a 3m (w) x 2.4m (h) door which seems good value.

I have two Garadoors. One is sliding panel the other is a upward tilting one. Been OK so far, (around seven years.) They make an insulated alternative which I got. They seem quite well made, easy to fit and adjust. Good instructions.

The sliding panel door has good draught seals and can be adjusted to make a good seal. Also good ground seal with no threshold required.

No sign of any rust/ other deterioration.

Reply to
harryagain

Mine is a Hormann. Some ten years old now, but still works beautifully. Easy to lock and unlock too.

Reply to
Jim Hawkins

I looked at roller doors (can't remember what makes - but they were all very similar) when I had a new garage built a few years ago. Whereas they have the advantage of rolling up into a fairly small space (but see below) when open, rather than going a long way back into the garage, they didn't seem very robust to me. The ones I looked at were made of horizontal aluminium strips with the top and bottom edges folded over to make them sort of hinge together - but it didn't look very strong at all.

I ended up with an electrically operated sectional door - which is very robust and very draft-proof and well insulated. I'm not sure I'd have had enough headroom for a roller door anyway, because they need quite a lot of space above the doorway to roll up into.

Reply to
Roger Mills

It happens that RJS formulated :

I assume you mean a powered remote controlled door? My own up and over needed replacement several years ago. I got quotes for around £1,200, but found place which made them to measure for self install and paid around £500 for the complete kit, a bit smaller than your size. It uses a long narrow 24v motor, in the centre of the roll, which makes it very compact. The control system has crashed a couple of times over the years, so either a secondary means of access to reset it or manually crank is needed in case of power cuts, or a means to crank it from outside (you can get kits) is needed.

The alignment of verticals and the horizontal needs to be spot on, oor they can miss track after a few cycles.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Mine has the horizontal gap along the top. In the last part of the revolution to close, it pushes the tail end (top edge) of the door to the frame. I have it as a job to be done, to add some soft foam rubber along the lintel to provide a proper seal.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

In message , Jim Hawkins writes

You also need to consider headroom. Taller garage = more space for the roll.

We have Seceuroglide. Faultless for 8 years (twice/day av. use) Then there was an issue which I now know was a limit switch problem. Motor stopped on override rather than on the switches. I made the mistake of manually interrupting and then releasing the door during lowering. It promptly took up the slack like a guillotine and smashed the motor epicyclic gearbox. New motor £350!

Reply to
Tim Lamb

Mine is a roller, with alloy strips, which are insulated. It certainly seems robust enough, proof against all but a vehicle being deliberatly driven at it I would have thought.

I've not measured it, but the tubular motor is in the centre oof the roll and when fully oopen it measures around 9" diameter. One of its selling points, was the smallness of the roll/ height needed above the bottom oof the lintel.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Don't. I've encountered a lot of garage doors, and there seems to be only o ne type thats very reliable. They have a rigid door with 2 arms sticking ou t with weights on. All other types I've come across suffer many failures, e specially the popular hendersons.

se to me. They want ~ £1,500 for a 3m (w) x 2.4m (h) door which seems go od value.

kinell. What do a few 4" hinges cost, 2 strips of angle iron and a welder f or an hour?

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Ones with a motor in the centre of the roll should be avoided like the plague.

Reply to
Bob Minchin

I'm also told that these are all very fine until something goes wrong, then it can cost a lot of dosh, you can hardly roll it up and put it in the post. However wherever you are building your garage, be completely sure that no motorist can put a ding in it as this seems to knacker roller shutters very fast. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

In message , RJS writes

Mine's a Rolux. The straps which hold the door onto the centre spindle can sometimes break. Get a couple of spare fobs at the time of buying as they will rip you off if you go back later.

Reply to
bert

I almost wish I'd bought a roller door, then I would have a higher opening, and somewhere to hang my kayaks straight off the roof rack. For the sectional door that I bought, I had to lower the door opening by

200mm so that the door track would fit under the sideways beams in the middle of the garage. Apart from that, the sectional door works well and seals well. It's nearly 5 metres wide because I have a large car! When there's a power cut and you are closing a sectional door by hand, don't get your fingers in the joints or they will be squashed.
Reply to
MattyF

Hi Bob, Why? Have you had bad experiences with them?

Richard

Reply to
RJS

Motors are too small and have bespoke gear boxes and tend to very expensive to repair. You are also stuck with a door in the position when it fails. Almost certain to have nothing accessible to maintain either.

A simple external motor can be disconnected and the door operated manually. Many more options on repair/replacement with standard parts for DIY repairs should they be needed in the future.

Reply to
Bob Minchin

They are not very strong at all, saw that when the new workshop where i worked was being fitted out, the roller doors had been fitted about a week before (about 10 foot wide and 18 foot high, as it was a commercial vehicle workshop)

Bloke came to adjust the truck lift one night at about 8pm, parked his freshly restored capri in front of the right hand door and set to work on the lift behind the left hand door, luckily for him....

The bosses son decided to park one of the recovery trucks in front of the doors so it could be connected to the battery charger is it was failing to start most mornings,

For some reason he reversed it up to the right hand door, there was a crump noise and we saw the roller door flapping about.

The capri had been punted straight through the roller door as if it wasn't there, the sections of the door just bent inwards a little until they were free of the tracks, once released from the tracks the door sections just flapped upwards as the car went through.

Capri got new front and rear bumpers and a few touchups to the paint job, and the roller door got a few new sections..... and the bosses son got a good bollocking and was given all the crappy jobs for the next few weeks.

Reply to
Gazz

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