On 06/01/2020 10:42, The Natural Philosopher wrote: > Just scraoe out anything that is totally loose, and then go to halfords >
Thanks for that - hadn't realised the fibreglass resin was the same base as the filler :)
Most of this will be convered by replacement corner bead so no worries there.
Cheers :) Tim
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T
Tim Watts
Thanks for that :)
N
newshound
Agreed
J
John Rumm
That looks dark enough that you could get away with a multitude of repair sins if required :-)
Yup that sounds like the best option - just do a large ish bit of new wood rather than worry about making a patchwork of small filled bits.
Sepele is a good grain and colour match, not to mention being fairly easy to get hold of.
J
John Rumm
I would opt for :
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They do a dark brown version of that as well.
T
The Natural Philosopher
It is for the polyesters. Epoxy which is a two pack mix is different I wouldnt recommend epoxy: its harder to use - need to get the two amounts very equal and very well mixed to avoid areas that never set properly. Polyester once it sees a whiff of catalyst goes off properly everywhere.
Oh ok. Car body filler it is then. I personally didnt biother to stablise rot last job I did - just pulled off the loose stuff and drove some screws into the solid bit for a key and made a whole new lower door frame section for the garage doors!
use polythene sheet to form a moulding surface. It doesnt stick to poly
T
Tim Watts
Ah
I was thinking about popping some screws in - to the 3 or 4 different members that meet at the joint, then dripping some wire or coarse glass fibres into the hole as I filled with the filler, just to tie the joint.
I should be careful that I choose to do whatever external splice at the same time, if I do - otherwise I'll end up with a bit that's impossible to cut.
Might be best as John mentioned, to commit to a heavy splice - I'll be able to assess the damage better in a big external hole and I will at least end up with the corner post properly supported at least on a lump of 2x3 or 3x3 sapele. The rest of the bodgery is reduced to saeling the mush to prevent it collecting more water in the next winter and hopefully putting a stop to further rot.
T
Tim Watts
I'm curious - did they pick this for a reason? vs say a thin resin?
Ease of use, obviously. It's just, in my mind, I assumed that if it were saturated in resin, the result would be more solid?
G
George Miles
Wood filler is far more expensive than car body filler but is supposed to flex when the wood expands and contracts with heat and humidity.
I waterproofed mine on the outside and cut holes through the inside so they would dry out over time.
Yes screws for the filler to set around is a good idea
[george]
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