Replastering after DPC

[Ewan Anderson]

Does anyone know the recommended method of fixing corner beads prior to replastering after a chemical damp-proof-course has been installed?

After reading various threads I booked onto a 4 day plastering course last week. Very useful and worth the money considering how much it will probably save me over the years.

But when I asked the above question I got the reply "just stick it on with a bit of left-over skim".

Can't be right can it? Especially after reading installation instructions for a couple of chemical dpcs.

Also I know it's been mentioned before but has anyone got any feedback on "Dryzone" dpc cream? It looks so much easier to install than other "traditional" products. This in itself raises my suspicions, but it is BBA certified, with 20 year guarantee etc etc.

I know a couple of people here have used it in the past. Did it work? Or was it more likely to be the replastering job that stopped the damp?

Thanks

Ewan

[Ali Mac]

Just used it myself in a cellar wall and it seems fine. It's very easy because you're drilling into the mortar. It's not cheap and the applicator gun is ridiculously expensive (44 quid), but all things considered I'd recommend it. However, time will tell ........

[Coherers]

No, not right. But hardly anyone seems to abide by the dpc specs/ British Standard at all (e.g. Sharp sand, correct admixtures etc., etc. )

Recently had a dpc done, and the angle beads went on after the first coat of render. Even so, the builder used a dab of plaster in most places, and the second coat of render went over that! However, I can't see why you couldn't position them just using properly mixed cement. I managed to get the external render stops (similar to beads) in position in the second scratch coat, and I am hopeless at building stuff....

I looked into using Dryzone, but I decided against, as it hasn't been around long enough to know if it will last for 30 years. Probably will be fine, but I don't want to a guinea pig. The way I look at it, pressure injection methods are tried and tested... In twenty years time when there haven't been lots of call backs over its use, I'll give it a go....

Also the other chemical companies (e.g. Sovereign group) haven't launched a competing product....

[Andrew Gabriel]

Good fun too. Where did you do it?

Are you refering to plasterboard beading or plaster beading? Plasterboard beading I stick on with a bit of skim -- run a line of it down the channel, and push the bead into place so it oozes out of the slots in the side. Plaster beading I hold in place with whatever I am using for the scratch coat -- I use bonding coat or sand and cement where there's a chance of any dampness. You need to check the edge is vertical and stright in both planes with a spirit level and positioned where you want the corner to be. Whatever you use has to set before you can continue with the plastering with plaster beading (i.e. a day for sand and cement). If using plaster, a bit of out-of-date plaster is handy as it sets much faster. For plasterboard beading, the sucktion holds it on so you can use your finish coat plaster mix and then immediately continue applying the first finish coat.

[Ewan Anderson]

The Northern School of Plastering in Chester. No website but they run ads in a wide variety of local papers in the Northwest.

Plaster beading, to form the corner for the sand and cement scratch coat.

I guess we just used skim as is would dry quicker and in a 4-day course time was of the essence. But when replastering after a DPC it didn't seem like a good move. Sand and cement it is then!

[Lobster]

Ewan, Could you post their contact details and/or any more info (or email me if you'd rather)? I'm really interested in this (had a look under directory enquiries but drew a blank...) Regards David

[Ewan Anderson]

The contact/brochureline number is 01244 303036. Address is Northern School of Plastering, Unit 6, Chesterbank Business Park, Saltney, Chester CH4 8SL

Cheers

Ewan