We need to replace our old acrylic bath and taps with a new one, preferably steel as the plastic was just too darned hard to keep clean. I'm still not sure whether bath replacement is feasible for an only moderately competent diyer.There seem to be two distinct price ranges on steel baths, one around £70-100, and another £200 upwards. The latter seem to come with much longer guarantees, and I've also seen comments about how easy it is to chip the enamel of baths of the cheaper sort when installing them: does anyone have any relevant experience?I've seen weight of baths quoted from 20kg to 65kg - if 20kg it won't be too hard to lift, but if good quality ones with thicker steel and enamel are really as heavy as 50 or 60kg I can't imagine how I'm going to get it up the stairs to the 1st floor. Maybe if they are delivered, the delivery people will do that for me? It's not helpful that almost on-line descriptions of baths give all dimensions except the overall weight.Taps: the old set had a thermostatic mixer for the shower which was nice when it worked, but I had to take it apart every year or two as it scaled up (we are in a hard water area). I've seen advice that it's a waste of time buying a thermostatic mixer in a hard water area as all of them suffer the same way - is that true, or are there any brands which have solved this problem?Removing the old bath. I can reach and loosen the nuts on the nearer tap, but the other one is too far to reach and twist (at least without a specialist spanner). It seems to me the simplest thing might be to cut the copper pipes to both taps somewhat nearer the floor, remove the old bath, and then install flexible pipes to the new taps. Does this seem likely to solve the problem of removing the old bath? By the way, I've seen recommendations that isolating valves be fitted as well, and at least one posting saying they are now required: is this so?

It's not that difficult depending on what you're connecting to - modern copper is easy - 100 year old lead, probably not. I put one in at my old home, a Kaldewei and went for a somewhat more expensive one, given that the labour is the same. Very good quality, no flexing. The new owner of my home had it in a skip within a month . Note that if you go to the right supplier there is a whole choice of lengths 1400/1500/1550/1600/1650/1700/1800 IIRC and you might find that one other than the standard 1700 makes for a better layout. Officially most will only deliver kerbside, but IME most will help in anticipation of a suitable token. Steel bath on carpet is easy to move as you can drag it, but you probably need a second person to get a heavier one upstairs.

Replacing acrylic bath with steel one

Replacing acrylic bath with steel one - feasible for DIY?

Apr 29, 2011 23 Replies

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Man at B&Q 15 years ago

Come back after a nice little break and Harry is still spouting utter c*ck.

MBQ

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Man at B&Q 15 years ago

Especially if it's new and you use the correct cleaning products in the first place.

I notice that. Anyone tried squirty foam as insulation?

MBQ

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Tony Bryer 15 years ago

The ordinary stuff out of an aerosol just rolled off when I tried it. ISTR that the foam used on cylinders is a two part foam.

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Martin Bonner 15 years ago

It was supposed to "look" cast iron, but I don't think it actually was cast in a mold from molten iron.

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