Assessing the Oak stock this afternoon. I have plenty of Oak scantling
sawn about 95mm square. I have a few knot free timbers 180x95mm. With
an awful lot of gluing and timber matching, I could copy the farmhouse
stair but with a half riser to meet BR.
Is there a best glue for Oak and does it work below 10 deg. C?
Pictures to follow..
I would expect so - although glue alone might do the job in a decent
depth rebate its slightly sub optimal since the grain directions don't
Basically you have to fit all the treads and risers to one string, then
apply the other - creating the finished stair in one hit.
(the traditional way you can hang both strings and then fit each tread
and riser in place as you go. A traditional wedged construction is not
designed to be "seen" from the underside directly - it would normally
have a covering)
One I did ages ago:
and a more recent one:
Easy enough if your boards are reasonably straight and not twisted, and
you have access to a thickness planer... more of a pain with a hand held
Hmm.. bit more than a long day in either of those:-)
Routing is not my favourite job. I couldn't afford the trend 1/2" router
so bought the Erbaur. Works OK apart from the one thing you need to be
silk slick. The plunge slide jams! No lubricant tried so far has helped.
Just about useable if I remember to load the left hand side first....
Delivery on a manufactured Oak stair is about 3 weeks so I can mull a
decision over for a long time yet.
The pool ones were about three half days... (mainly because I had to
glue up the strings from smaller timbers). I can't remember how long the
house ones were - I seem to recall it was about three days (excluding
balustrade) but that did include having to remake the strings when we
worked out the architect could not count, and there should have been 3
steps and not 12! (those were more complicated though since they had a
kite and winders at both top and bottom.
(Titting about with the banisters was probably another day and a half
since I was also replacing the run along the landing to match).
On Sunday, 14 January 2018 20:16:55 UTC, Tim Lamb wrote:
If necessary stairs can be built without routers.
Another is to use 2 strips of wood bonded together in lieu of each one, one with the necessary areas sawn out, the other not.
The open riser style shown is quick to built, and of course can be closed.
Our neighbour has a magnificent boundary oak in his garden. Say three
hundred years old, at a guess. At those prices, the wood in it is worth
tens of thousands of pounds. Fortunately, it's subject to a TPO.
On Fri, 12 Jan 2018 20:01:18 +0000, Tim Lamb wrote:
Could you keep the stringers and strip out the backing, risers and treads
and just replace the treads and bannisters/rails with oak?
The stringers could be painted to match wall colours which would 'hide'
them and emphasise the oak used elsewhere.
Yes. The idea (hers!) is to allow more light along the hall. The
existing stringers are knot free pine. However, these are cheap standard
stairs with over sized routed slots intended for glue and wedge
assembly. Fitted in 1995, the glue may resist tidy disassembly:-( The
riser slot would be too long for a half riser and lead to filling
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