Existing pine string with plywood risers and plasterboard back to hide the wedges. Brown wood stain so lots of work to improve.
Budget enquiry for a replacement in Oak with semi open risers starts at ?1800!
Anyone found a cheaper way?
Can you keep them and clad them?
Choose a cheaper timber? Mind you there is a lot of work in consructing a staircase...
Have a play with the designer here ...
e.g. for all oak, with handrail/baluster to one side is £250 cheaper, tweak about with sizes and what bits you want in various materials
Sure. Find a tree, cut it down...
NT
Been there. Sadly the Lucas mill used to convert had a max cutting depth of 200mm. With a blunt blade would only cut 150mm reliably.
Just about seasoned now but an awful lot of jointing to get a step width.
The one in the farmhouse is nice although not entirely to building regs. Twin centre spine with chunky, no riser, steps. Parana Pine so not repeatable.
Hmm.. ?1100 without newel or banister. No option for open plan or half riser and I'm not sure what they mean by *engineered Oak*.
This what I would like:-)
Engineered oak usually means real oak facing glued to a composite (ply or mdf) core.
Probably not that bad if real oak...
(I bought some Americal White oak (kinl dried, sawn) the other day; 3
10' lengths of 6x2, and 4 8' lengths of 6 x 1.25 - did not get much change from £400!)Only if you build it yourself from scratch... (which last time I did it, I actually quite enjoyed)
They do say that the treads are 22mm, but the 22mm risers only have a
9mm oak veneer, so maybe the other 'engineered' oak is finger jointed?
Plywood made of layers of at least oak on the surface
Maybe time for a £100 alaskan mill. There are ways to do stairs relatively cheaply. Just spend ages googling fo r images.
NT
I have made several. No problem. Most cost less than £50.
Hmm, are you sure about that? Did you cost your time?
Brian
Hmm.. the stair sites claim selected White Oak and disparage Red. I've only seen it used as trailer flooring and thought it uninteresting grain wise.
Yes. I've got the tackle to do the job but time is pressing and it is a while since I could manage an 8 hour day:-(
There is a glimmer of hope as the boss has volunteered funds:-)
>
Could you keep the stringers and strip out the backing, risers and treads and just replace the treads and bannisters/rails with oak?
The stringers could be painted to match wall colours which would 'hide' them and emphasise the oak used elsewhere.
Yes. The idea (hers!) is to allow more light along the hall. The existing stringers are knot free pine. However, these are cheap standard stairs with over sized routed slots intended for glue and wedge assembly. Fitted in 1995, the glue may resist tidy disassembly:-( The riser slot would be too long for a half riser and lead to filling issues.
Paint has already been vetoed!
I was not suggesting a particular species of wood for the project - more just illustrating that oak in general is not cheep. (Especially when you consider American white is usually cheaper than English oak. Not sure how Red compares price wise).
For a straight run like in your picture, its a pretty easy build - certainly not 8 hours of work for the stringers. If you go for the non traditional "fully captive" treads and risers like in the photo, its just a case of making a template, followed by lots of routing.
If you are buying sawn rather than prepared wood, you would spend most of your time preparing the timber rather than making the stairs. If you buy PAR, then you would likely have the whole thing knocked out in an afternoon!
That might change the cost benefit analysis ;-)
Point taken.
I can do that bit. How do you suppose they secure the treads and half riser? I'm guessing glue/screw with the hole disguised with a plug.
I have a planer although that length might be tricky.
Indeed! On balance I think my time better spent on other jobs. I still have the bulk of the plumbing to do plus making and fitting doors to the various soffit/attic spaces to say nothing of installing the kitchen and utility tackle.
Nope.
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