Existing pine string with plywood risers and plasterboard back to hide
the wedges. Brown wood stain so lots of work to improve.
Budget enquiry for a replacement in Oak with semi open risers starts at
Anyone found a cheaper way?
On Sat, 13 Jan 2018 08:46:13 -0800 (PST), harry wrote:
Proper ones? With tapered slots and wedges to hold the risers and
treads in place in the stringers?
So hardly a valid comparision to a cost that includes labour.
"Costing your time" is a curious one. If SWMBO'd doesn't think a task
is "worth while" she'll use "... and have you included the cost of
your time?". Then she'll nag me to say cut/split the accumulated wood
pile into bits suitable for the woodburner, because it's free...
Have a play with the designer here ...
e.g. for all oak, with handrail/baluster to one side is £250 cheaper,
tweak about with sizes and what bits you want in various materials
Hmm.. ?1100 without newel or banister. No option for open plan or half
riser and I'm not sure what they mean by *engineered Oak*.
This what I would like:-)
Been there. Sadly the Lucas mill used to convert had a max cutting depth
of 200mm. With a blunt blade would only cut 150mm reliably.
Just about seasoned now but an awful lot of jointing to get a step
The one in the farmhouse is nice although not entirely to building regs.
Twin centre spine with chunky, no riser, steps. Parana Pine so not
I was not suggesting a particular species of wood for the project - more
just illustrating that oak in general is not cheep. (Especially when you
consider American white is usually cheaper than English oak. Not sure
how Red compares price wise).
For a straight run like in your picture, its a pretty easy build -
certainly not 8 hours of work for the stringers. If you go for the non
traditional "fully captive" treads and risers like in the photo, its
just a case of making a template, followed by lots of routing.
If you are buying sawn rather than prepared wood, you would spend most
of your time preparing the timber rather than making the stairs. If you
buy PAR, then you would likely have the whole thing knocked out in an
I can do that bit. How do you suppose they secure the treads and half
riser? I'm guessing glue/screw with the hole disguised with a plug.
I have a planer although that length might be tricky.
Indeed! On balance I think my time better spent on other jobs. I still
have the bulk of the plumbing to do plus making and fitting doors to the
various soffit/attic spaces to say nothing of installing the kitchen and
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