Repainting ride-on mower deck

[Adrian Brentnall]

Hi folks! I have the cutter deck removed from my John Deere ride-on mower - while the 'tractor' section is in for its service.

Can't remember how old it is - probably at least 10 years - and, when not in use, it lives in the shed that also contains our well-water system. Until recently, the well tended to overflow - which meant that the shed got fairly humid - and much of the paint has rusted off the steel cutter deck.

So - while it's on the workbench, I thought I'd delay the inevitable a bit by cleaning the deck up and repainting it.

Currently On top of the deck) it's a mixture of the few areas where the original paint hasn't flaked off, areas where the paint has flaked off shoeing bright metal underneath, and other areas which have a fair bit of surface rust. Underneath, it's mostly rusted.

I've pressure-washed it all (avoiding the bearings!) - and I'm contemplating my next move.

Paintwise - I have Hammerite - so that's what I'll be using.

So - I think thinking to get a steel cup brush in a drill and strip off as much loose rust as possible.

Should I then go straight in with the Hammerite, or use a stabiliser/primer first on the rust areas and then Hammerite, or is it true what they say on the tin and the Hammerite can go over the rusty areas with no prior treatment?

Underneath the deck - would you go for Hammerite, or something else.

Not looking for a 'councours' paint job - just to get a few more years life out of the thing.

Thanks Adrian

[Chris Green]

[snip rust prevention question]

I'd go for Owatrol rather than Hemmerite, possibly followed by a coat of something a bit decorative.

[Theo]

I've not had much success with Hammerite on old cars: it tends to have air bubbles which create pinholes in the surface, then water gets underneath and flakes off the paint. A bit overrated IMHO.

I'd use a phosphoric acid stabiliser to neutralise the remaining rust. Then a zinc or red oxide primer. I've used 'Galvafroid' (~60% zinc), some of the red oxide ones have about 2.5% zinc, check the MSDS. Then whatever surface treatment you want (car paint in my case, then a clear coat).

Underneath I'd look at undersealing, although I'd not sure if things are complicated if it's going to get grass thrown at it. I used some black tarry underseal to protect against stone chips and road water, but it remains tacky. On a mower I'd want a non-sticky surface so it didn't get full of grass (and possibly wiped off) - not sure what's best for that, possibly some of the thinner Waxoyl types.

Theo

[Andy Burns]

I think POR-15 is better rated?

[nothanks]

I would use Fertan* first and then Hammerite on top. I did something similar with a pair of large'ish metal gates and they're still good. Many years ago I repaired a mower deck with fibreglass matting and then a coat of Hammerite - it's rarely used now but still rust free.

*

[Adrian Brentnall]

Thanks Chris.... (apologies for the direct reply - always catches me out on T-bird!)

I have the Hammerite on the shelf - so I'm a bit committed to that <grin>. Do you happen to know if any common substance will clean Hammerite off paintbrushes?

[Adrian Brentnall]

Thanks Theo (Apologies for the direct email - finger-trouble) I have some rust stabiliser - I'll give that a try.

I was thinking the same as you about the underside - Waxoyl-type-thing.... but when it's going to get pelted with grass, I don't know if it's just going to form a claggy mess?

[Adrian Brentnall]

Hi Theo Thanks - apologies for the direct follow-up - I'd forgotten how T-bird does things!

[Adrian Brentnall]

[Chris Green]

:-)

I've replied by E-Mail but here's the same reply again. That's one of the reasons I don't like Hammerite, difficult to clean. Hammerite thinners is/are expensive.

[Andy Burns]

If you install the TB add-on called "Message Header Toolbar Customise" it will let you customise and hide the confusing reply button, leaving only the follow-up button.

Personally, I hide all the buttons in that pane and just use the reply button in the main TB toolbar, that always behaves as expected without trying to be too "smart" for its own good.

[Animal]

Wire wheel removes more than a cup, wider = faster linear speed. WW in angle grinder removes more than in a drill, 11k rpm vs 1-2k. But you'll still have enough rust left behind tp disrupt any paint layer. Acids can fix that. I'd use a hard paint, not soft things like undercoat. Or both if you want. Any well adhering paint I'd leave on, no need to remove.

[The Natural Philosopher]

My deck lasted about 18 years before the hanmering it got tore the metal. The new deck is now in the state yours is in

The engine has never had an oil change or a spark plug ever.

Frankly, don't worry. The steel is thick

But if you want to prettify it, just paint the top with deruster and then spary car paint on it.

There is no pointy in painting inside it. It wont last a month. the blades whip up the dust and sandblast it, and the wet grass sticks to it

[Adrian Brentnall]

Ah, thanks Andy - you're a star! Adrian

[Adrian Brentnall]

Thanks. Some of the little places are a bit small to get into with a wire wheel.. I was anticipating mechanical removal as a prelude to chemical treatment..

There's precious-little 'well-adhering' paint, if you get under the edge of even the bits that look good then they just peel off. Seems to be little or no bond between the paint and the bright steel underneath...

Have brushed on a bit of rust remover that I had siting around, and will see what that does..

Thanks! Adrian

[Adrian Brentnall]

Yes - I think it's a fact of life. Not helped by the storage in rather damp condx, and the lads who removed some small trees from the lawn but didn't want to run the risk of damaging their chainsaws by going down too low - and left just enough stump protruding that I managed to clobber it the last time I used the mower!

Job for when it gets a bit warmer - attack the remaining tree-stumps with a large spade wood-drilling bit in the mains drill..

I get mine done every year or two.

Yes - true. Mower maintenance man reckoned it was worthwhile getting some protection on the deck - but I'm not going to do a full 'restoration' job on it..

Thanks

That was my thought too... Adrian

[nothanks]

What I said earlier (Fertan+Hammerite) was meant for the top. If the underneath was poor I would: clean as best I could, degrease, apply Fertan, then use fibre glass matting to make a protective skin (no need for paint).

A small comment on the "while the 'tractor' section is in for its service" ... I don't know whether John Deere's are particularly complex (I doubt they are) but why pay for someone to service a mower at garage rates when it's easy to DIY and avoids the transport issues. I recently did a service on my Countax ride-on: changing the engine oil and tuff torq transaxle oil, replacing drive and deck belts, cleaning the air filter, checking the spark plugs, adjusting and lubricating the linkages, replacing broken fingers in the PGC, sharpening the blades, and fixing a couple of minor niggles ... maybe 3-4 hours in total and I know everything has been done. 't'ain't difficult.

[Adrian Brentnall]

Thanks. I'm not sure just how poor the underside is... I've not had a detailed 'pick' at it yet - working on the top side first...

All understood. I've spent many hours bend-double beside a variety of motorcycles, a, after that, lawn tractors.

Nowadays (and I know this is kind of anti the ethos of the group) I'm afraid I just can't be a*sed <grin>

Little man from the local town comes in his van, wheels the mower into the back, takes it away, does what needs to be done, and brings it back, suitably fettled.. I give him folding money, and it's all done for the next 18 months / 2 years (or until I clobber the next tree-stump!).

Meanwhile, I can get on with doing what I do to earn money (which i can then pay to the man in the van).

We each do what we're good at....

20 years ago - I would have spent an afternoon faffing with the ride-on

- but nowadays... no.

[Mark]

waxoyl is useless underneath I spray on Tetroseal Underseal underneath every year, the ride on is now 40years old and still rust free

--

[Adrian Brentnall]

Thanks! I though as much about waxoyl.. I'll look for the Tetroseal..