Removing top course of concrete blocks from a garden wall...

Mar 24, 2010 8 Replies

Good day... I want to remove the top course of from a long concrete-block garden wall. can anyone suggest the easiest way to do that, so as to end up with a reasonably clean top edge, and with as little work as possible? Unfortunately, the wall was built rather well, with 3:1 or 4:1 mortar and



18" x 18" piers every ten feet or so. I'm imagining (probably fancifully) that there might be some kind of tungsten carbide tipped chainsaw tyoe weapon, or something that would cut all the way along and give a fairly clean cut. I'm guessing that using a bolster and a heavy lump hammer is going to be laborious and disheartening way to attempt it. Standing on the top of the wall knocking the top blocks off, one-by-obe with a sledge hammer was another idea, but it might tend to damage the course below the top one. Has anyone had to tackle this one before? How did you end up doing it?

Many thanks



Al


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Run a 9" angle grinder through the mortar course on both sides of the wall. Follow up with hammer and bolster which should be fairly easy since your angle grinder cuts will have taken much of the strength out of the bond.

Cic.

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just to say do wot 'e said. Tis the only good way.

NT

Al 1953 submitted this idea :

I would suggest an angle grinder with a diamond stone blade, run along either side of the mortar between top and intended top course, enough to weaken it to part there.

Yes the Angle grinder .. the "standard issue" tool on UK DIY;)...

Harry Bloomfield wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk:

There seems to be some concensus there! thanks guys! I just happen to have the said tool. I had cinsidered that idea but thought that cutting would take an age, but hopefully the mortar will be a sensible strength and not like 3:1 or something silly.. I've only used tungsten carbide blades in the past. Perhaps a diamond blade will be worth the expense. I guess it'll make the cutting a lot easier, yes?

Al

Oh yes! Even a Screwfix or Aldi/Lidl cheapie, IMHO.

If the wall is quite high (say 2m) it would be worth setting up some simple staging so that you are working at a comfortable height: there's a lot of gyroscope effect with the big blade. Even something as simple as a scaffold plank on a couple of workmates. You want to have your face well above the "spray" line, even with PPE

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A diamond blade should make short work of the mortar but watch out for the dust - a bit like a comet trail in close-up.

Cic.

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Yup, long sleeves and gloves recommended, especially with diamond blades. Diamond blades are cheap now, a few pounds each for the small

4.5" ones.

NT

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