I have some tiles infront of a sink in the bathroow 15cm X 15cm ones... Now I recently hammer and chiseled the ones around the bath which was a headache and damaged the plastboard which I had to dot and dab some new boarding on pffft ....... as there are about 9 only above the sink and its only cereamic right, could I used some 40 grit and a sander and sand it down :) ?
will that work :)
please say yes because I murdered my hand with a hammer and cold chisel last time lol.
Sand what down, plasterboard? on show or behind tiles?
NT
For the sake of nine tiles, is it worth bothering trying to tile over them? - how many did you remove on the other walls?
cold chisel? get/borrow a bolster (3inch wide blade) - aim at gap betwixt wall and tile and tw@t with lump hammer - ping! tile will hopefully fall off in one piece - try it?
Jim K
Sanding the tiles away to nothing? Yes I guess it would work but the amount of dust it would generate doesn't bear thinking about.
And these days come with a plastic guard so when you miss you don't whack your hand.
That's the way to do it! Flat side of bolster almost parallel to the wall so it doesn't dig in. Of course if the tile/adhesive is stronger than the plaster board you may still find chuncks being ripped out of it.
If you want to remove them - it will work - eventually. You will prolly be found dead from dust inhalation amid a pile of worn abrasive though.
If its to key them to tile over - don't bother. Just clean them & use a decent tile adhesive.
SDS drill and chisel bit
On plasterboard, a 4" scraper and a claw hammer. Bolsters and chisels are too thick to get behind tiles cleanly
Sand what down, plasterboard? on show or behind tiles?
NT
The actual tile, my plan was to sand them down as low then smooth the last bit down with a less agressive grade paper ?
about 80
used how?
cleanly?? (method has worked ok IME)
Jim K
Pretty obvious that a thinner blade is going to get behind the tile easier than a big fat one. Only problem is the flexibility of the scraper, but a sharp tap at the right angle usually does it for me. A different approach required on solid walls of course.
tho not obvious how it would make it any easier given the flexibility and thus weakness as a lever to prise with against the strength of set tile adhesive.... the bolster and club hammer is akin to splitting wood with a splitting maul *not* a felling axe...
for completeness - what is the right angle IYE?
Jim K
It'll take days ...
Dunno, but try it next time you're dealing with tiles on plasterboard.
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