############## HERE'S THE BIT YOU'VE IGNORED ##################
######### WARMTH, HEAT, OPPOSITE TO COLD #############
############ MAKE SOFT, NOT HARD #################
##### MECHANISM PROVIDING MOTIVE POWER #######
########## CONNECTED ##############
################## END ####################### ________________________________________________
ODD THAT YOU'VE REPEATEDLY QUOTED ME, BUT FAIL TO SEE THE EXPLANATION. ANY REASON YOU WOULD LIKE TO EXPLAIN?
e. =A0No pitch
iT'S CHEAP AND NASTY!
Why? You could just leave the motor running - unless you have one of those semi-automatic decks that makes this difficult.
But if all you play is singles, I'm not surprised rumble doesn't matter much to you. They've mostly all got it cut into them. Quality wasn't much of a priority then. .
e:
nce. =A0No pitch
onsist of both
Cheap, yes. Effective, yes. If youre able to come back with a real reason why it might not work well, please do. Real reason means something factual and to do with geometries, alignment, or other relevant issues. 'Nasty' is not a genuine reason, and cheap is a good point.
NT
The performance metrics I'm aware of have no relation to start-up time. Only in dj work is it of any significance.
NT
:
ck start speed
being some 40
ally under the
You've still not explained how clamping the thing down makes any difference to rubber temperature. AFAICS it doesnt make any significant difference. Firstly the temp rrise in the rubber due to the motor is trivial, and secondly there is no mechanism I'm aware of by which it could repair a flattened section.
If youre not able to explain what you propose, then further discussion is not going to be constructive.
NT
because that is my preference.
If you really mean, just leave the heavy platter running with a belt drive, I disagree. Changing discs is difficult if you don't want the last played disc on the floor.
Rumble exists with three elastomer mounts for the motor the same. I have ELIMINATED it by changing one or two of the rubbers. I do not detect rumble in the cuttings, it must be your player.
te:
uick start speed
te being some 40
sually under the
some types of
the motor and
FFS, it traps the heat emitted from the motor. There is no flow of ait past the motor windings when the exhaust channel is blocked. Normally the air enters at the base or back of the cabinet and fows past the warm motor and out between the cabinet deck and the metal motor-board.
athe motor board and platter get significantly warmer, enough to soften the idler wheel. It is quite probable that many idler wheels were injured due to fastening the motor -board and powering off with the drive still engaged. They can still be rescued.
I am aware, because I've done it, repeatedly.
My only further explanation is that you are at most an idiot.
So a subjective judgement only, then.
:
Is that not important in a source of entertainment? Should I dump the instrument I enjoy using and buy somrthing I think obnoxious because someone tells be "it works", when in all probability it will be a poorer performer than an instrument which is already technically sorted to my satisfaction?
Indeed. My Thorens is pretty slow starting, but I've never found it a problem because it will be up to speed by the time you lift the pickup off its rest and swing it to the start.
Really?
Explains a lot. Try some speakers with a true bottom end. Assuming your room is suitable. Perhaps the majority of discs have rumble cut into them.
No, but you shouldn't tell other people they are idiots just because they disagree.
Can't say I've ever found it tricky.
IME, with a limited sample of decks, rumble has been more a platter bearing issue than due to motor noise. The motor is mounted on soft rubber, and is largely isolated from the platter by the belt. (Of course neith is true for idler wheel decks)
Where the central bearing is rumbly, packing graphite into it makes a big improvement.
NT
:
I don't. You've made that conclusion of your own free will.
wITH THE PLATTER STILL RUNNING? Perhaps you could show me a demonstration, I need to be learnt.
Clean it and oil it. If there is still rumble from the bearing, replace it.
Replacing the bearing with good eliminates bearing rumble. Consumer grade turntables wont usually be able to contain graphite in the platter bearing.
It severely limited to below the motor board itself and the only method of heat disipation is through the metal parts, which is relatively very slow in comparison.
At the motor board, the temp rises from a couple of degrees above room temp to at least warm (more than tepid, not hand hot). The precise temperature rise is irrelevant, the method works without a thermometer or detailed analysis.
Much larger cabinet with a fan.
As long as the machine is driving, the softened rubber idler is reformed. As I said, the deformation on the Garrard idlers, when present, is temporary. With other manfacturers there is varying levels of success.
With Garrards, the injury only occurs in 33 or 16 and is only temporary. Think of it as a bruise, removed with a warm poultice.
A warmer environment makes the indent deeper.
Well, I'd like to think I wasn't arguing against an inferior, but this is dragging.
Its trivial, just pick the disc up with 2 hands on oposite sides.
its an option. Graphite's far easier.
Some certainly do.
NT
Well, I'll have to take your word that it works. I cant see how a couple of degrees is going to change anything though.
Foolish conclusions.
Really, a 7" disc off a11" platter still tuning at 45rpm? Show me how to do this and get the new disc playing in under two seconds.
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