For an upcoming fence repair/renewal job I am considering purchasing a
powered saw with a blade reach long enough to get between rail and post.
A nail wrench tends to damage otherwise reusable rails.
Lots of choice but what are the important considerations? For the
limited use, I will avoid battery operation.
Good speed control? Build quality? (somebody once gifted me a Skilsaw
Are the blade fittings universal?
Is the carbide tipped block blade any good?
Any preferences on blade manufacturer?
On Sunday, 6 April 2014 10:52:58 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
how long we talking?
IME yes pretty much. I don't recall ever "going wrong" on this aspect or even having a choice of mounting to ponder...
I got some excellent Bosch demolition blades - (wood & metal) off ebay. they IIRC about 10 inches long, flexible and very good. Tho suspect if you will be doing same sort of cut in same place on blade each time, then they'll wear...
I purchased a Makita recip saw when I was fitting my windows, made
chopping the old frames out a breeze, have since used it for cutting a
few 5-6" diameter tree stumps that I couldn't finish off by hand saw,
I wouldn't necessarily rule out battery, it had sufficient grunt that it
was vibrating the whole stump/roots back and forth (and the operator
hanging-on doing the same too!) which helped loosen it for final
removal, though it *is* the tool I possess from the LXT range which
drains batteries fastest, but I have three batteries. They make the same
saw in 230V/110V editions too if you're doing a long fence.
Excellent, from under 1 stroke/sec (up to nearly 50/sec according to the
plate) if the workpiece needs holding you'll likely need an assistant as
pretty much the saw needs two hands to use, one on the trigger the other
round its throat where it has a decent rubberish grip.
Seem to be.
Never tried any.
I used toolstation cheapies because they were the longest blades I could
find, when they go blunt they seem to lose all cutting power all at
once, you just realise you're suddenly making no progress at all an the
wood is smoking or steaming rather than getting cut ...
Comes out with the fire ash:-)
The posts are scrap.
The second problem is how to pull out the rotted off below ground bit of
post so that I can re-use the post holes.
I envisage something like giant sugar tongs operated by chain from my
forklift. About 60 to do!
To pull out concrete posts I used a rope hitch and a farm jack. Worked marv
ellously. Assuming the posts can take it, a rope hitch should be easy with
the aid of your forklift/skyhook. Failing that, how about whacking a very
big coach screw into/near the top of any broken-off posts with an impact dr
iver, and using that as tow point?
They are not finesse carpentry tools, but do work very well of lots of
awkward (or hostile environment) cutting operations.
Pendulum action is probably worth having for faster cuts. Personally not
so fond of the Bosch body style.
Yup, the better ones are tool less.
Bosch are good. Silverline green wood ones are good and cheap for trees
Did I just click the wrong button?
On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 23:05:51 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:
Ah. Alternative to trying to saw down between the post and rail, cut
post roughly above and below the rail. Then jemmy the bit of post off
and knock the whole nails back out of the rails. Having said that if
the nails have really rusted the block of post may well have to be
split off the nails...
Attach chain or strop so that the lifting force closes the blades
onto the post. Under the hinge?
IME its going to be really hard to get the rotten end out due to them
seldom being rotten except for the top inch or two.
I usually just get the SDS out and break off some of the concrete, dig
out the wood if its easy, drop in a spur and concrete it in.
It takes between 20 and 60 minutes depending on how energetic you are.
This is pony paddock, post and rail. No concrete but small rubble
included in the original back fill. I have managed a few manually and
the generally come out leaving a clean hole.
I may try to fabricate a scissor action grab for those actually broken
below ground level.
If the grounds soft you can try hammering the new post onto the stump
and push it deeper.
Get a bit of steel tube a bit bigger than the post, knock it in and pull
it out post with it. You can use your log splitter to push the stump out
ready for the next one.
On Mon, 7 Apr 2014 10:46:49 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:
Those that don't break off at ground level and you leave the stub
from below the bottom rail you may have enough to wrap a strop around
and pull straight up with the fork lift. Might take a bit of thought
on how to wrap the strop so that it tightens on pulling and pulls
evenly not just one side.
An easy to implement scissor lift would be a couple of plates of
steel with a slightly larger than post cross section sized cutout one
end, and a hole for a chain the other. Slide them down onto the post,
with the chain holes diametrically opposed, and then connect the chain
holes to each other with a yoke of chain that is long enough to clear
the top of the post. Now stick your forklift under the chain and lift.
/ __ \
C | | C
/ | | \
/ | P| \
/ | | \
===S===| |= \
=| |===S=== | |
P = post, L = Lift point, C = Chain, S = Steel Plate
The steel plates bite harder into the post the harder you pull them...
(this trick used to be a standard procedure used by a mate when
recovering a snapped off auger from the depths of a 20m hole that was
being pile driven! He would chuck a plate down on the end of a rope or
chain, and jangle about until he got the hole ove the end of the auger,
then use the pile driver to pull it upp (with a long auger the
asymmetric pull of only a single plate did not matter))
 or something welded up from square section etc.
Do-able but it relies on clearing enough soil away to reach a sound part
of what is by now a broken off rotted stump. The usual technique here
for lifting or withdrawing anything is to *strangle* it with a wire
strop and hoist with the fork lift.
The teeth on my scissors might be 15mm or so and able to slide down the
stump sides under the weight of the loader forks and carriage assembly.
The shovel mentioned up thread has the wrong pivot action to close the
jaws when the handles are lifted but I suppose this could be overcome by
lifting arms arranged to cross over. I might have some 6"x3" channel
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