Re-using alkaline batteries

I've just taken 3 x AAA batteries out of a torch as they are down to about 1v each and not enough to shine nicely.
But in series that's 3v. So a box with suitable connectors for AAA and AA batteries connected in series/parallel surely could extend the useful life of alkaline batteries. What's the downside?
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AnthonyL

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On 05/05/2017 19:45, AnthonyL wrote:

1. Internal resistance will be high, so as soon as you take a load, the voltage will drop further. 2. They may be more likely to leak. (Zinc/carbon ones certainly may, as the zinc casing is dissolved during discharge.) 3. You won't be able to fit the larger number of cells in the torch, unless they are hanging out the back with string and wires to hold/connect them. 4. People will think you are inordinately tight.
Why don't you put them in the oven, or connect a charger (but not too much current as alkalines will explode).
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Max Demian

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On 05/05/17 20:06, Max Demian wrote:

Or just leave then a week. Its amazing how much they de polarise.
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On Friday, 5 May 2017 23:22:41 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Especially if you leave them somewhere warm.
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Do I detect the pyramid will be along very soon now. No they do not get better with rest. Its afalacy for high current demand devices. Brian
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On Fri, 05 May 2017 18:45:46 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@please.invalid (AnthonyL) wrote:

A joule thief circuit could be used to raise the voltage instead of using more batteries.
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That has to increase current and hence reduce voltage further. No the only way to extend their lives is a charger that is used very few sessions on use. However this could, in the long run cost more than binning and buying or biting the bullet and getting good rechargeable in the first place. Note that led torches tend to be just as bright on rechargeable as alkaline as they have a circuit to control their current to stop them overheating. Brian
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On 19:45 5 May 2017, AnthonyL wrote:

Some people recharge alkaline cells but even with a special low current charger it's not for the faint hearted.
Anyway the additional charge is only modest and needs applying well before the cell is depleted. I suspect 1v is already too low.
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I can confirm this, significant poisoning of the electrodes has effectively made the battery very low current drain by then. Brian
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On 05/05/2017 19:45, AnthonyL wrote:

Construct a Joule Thief
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K53beWYdIpc

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wrote:

Completely off-topic but watching the video I noted the bright yellow multi-meter just like I had until last week (see the car battery thread).
I wanted to check the parasitic leakage from the battery when at rest and was all set up to do this when I realised that I had a problem to make the connection without losing battery power to the car radio.
I had checked using the voltmeter setting that I had a good earth point on the car (+ve to earth) and so connected the meter across -ve to that earth point with the intention of measuring current, and set about disconnecting the battery to earth at the earth point. In the process of doing this I knocked the meter connections so before I removed the earthing bolt I thought I'd better check I still had a good connection and clamped back to the +ve of the battery.
Woooshhh - my wife said "it's smoking". Yes, forgot to set back to volts and put the wire in the other socket on the meter. So just ran open circuit +ve to earth via the meter.
Perhaps I'd best stay away from electrics.
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AnthonyL wrote:

You should have watched more of Clive's videos sooner, he constantly reminds people to put multimeters back to volts range/socket immediately after using amps range/socket.
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On Saturday, 6 May 2017 14:38:16 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote:

A lot of multimeters die that way. Hopefully it'll motivate you to double check in future. It's probably only that one range that's affected.
NT
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On 06/05/2017 16:56, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

that one range that's affected.
I thought all multimeters whistle if you switch away from the high amp range while plugged into the high amp socket. And they all have a fuse, surely, in the amps circuit?
Bill
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On Sunday, 7 May 2017 21:13:43 UTC+1, Bill Wright wrote:

No. Not at all.
NT
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On 06/05/17 14:38, AnthonyL wrote:

A few weeks ago, I had a similar current drain investigation to do on a car, and setup the meter and wiring correctly on the 20A range, using the 20A socket, circuit in series, not worried about the radio, ignition off (obviously) etc....
Then a spark from made connections and the crappy meter leads got quite hot. Meter reading was dropping to less than an amp, but losing voltage in the meter leads due to rising resistance from heat probably invalidates the readings if anything.
So my immediate mistake was using Maplin meter leads of insufficient construction to carry possible currents I might be measuring, unexpected ones as well as expected.
Seems something electro-mechanical in this 2003 VW Polo, takes an initial gulp of current on an initial battery connection. I thought I heard a motor, but it's neither ventilation or the radiator. Auto priming fuel pump? the drivers door was open.
However, that investigation can wait for another day. I maybe also should stay away from car electrics and glitching ECUs with my intermittent battery connections.
Really need a cheap (<£50) clamp meter that does DC, if anyone has a recommendation.
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Adrian C

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Best way is to connect the DVM before removing the terminal from the battery. Let the car electric go to sleep, then remove the terminal. An easier way is to buy one of those battery disconnect devices that fits between terminal and lead, with a knob you unscrew to disconnect it.
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On Sun, 7 May 2017 21:26:34 +0100, Adrian Caspersz

Check out
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/technology/how-to/a5859/how-to-stop-car-battery-drains/
regarding surge etc.
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AnthonyL

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Not sure one capable of measuring a few milliamps accurately exists. Outside a lab.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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I though, perhaps wrongly, that a clamp meter depended on having ac flowing.
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from KT24 in Surrey, England

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