I've just taken off the old tiles in my bathroom. Unfortunately behind
the upper tiles is orginial plaster (horse hair etc.) This has crumbled
and most of it has come off the wall. It appears that lower down a
similar problem occured in the past, as this has been replastered.
There are no damp patches
As I am going to re-tile I want some advice on what to patch up this
wall with. I have considered using thistle hardwall. But wasn't sure
whether to then put a smoother top coat on as well.
Any advice and tips gratefully received.
Thanks, but most of the advice I have seen on this group suggests
steering clear of having plasterboard anyway near a bath/shower as it
doesn't respond well to damp. This was why I had thought of using an
Suit yourself,but I'm telling you now if the wall your plastering over is
crumbly and actually not adhering to the wall any more?the new plaster will
not make one iota of a difference regards to keeping the tiles in place.
As you have already found they're coming away from that area of wall.
thats because there are a bunch of old women here who can't tile a wall
and seal a bath to stop water getting behind them.
Its actually fine.
However if the wall is mainly sound, I's simply rip off the really loose
stuff, PVA the slightly OK stuff and reskim with a bonding plaster.
No need for a finish style plaster if you are tiling anyway.
If you are as crap at plastering as I am, get some batten and nail
carefully up so that there is a facing of batten that is true, and less
than a floats width apart, and then use that as a guide to get a true
You can leave the battens in afterwards. The tiles won't care.
Thanks everyone for the tips. I will be doing bonding plaster. The size
and shape of the unsound areas would not work with plasterboard.
Just to clarify 2/3rds of the wall has already been replastered, and is
still sound. So I am plastering an irregular area of about 2ft by 6ft.
Another question now arises.
Should I use pva with bonding plaster? I thought this was supposed to
stick itself. If it do use it, should it dry first or do it plaster
while still tacky.
IME it doesn't really matter what you use, with or without pva. Nothing
will bond reliably to crumbly plaster.
I'd use plasterboard, however irregular the shapes. It cuts easily
enough. Screw it to the brickwork to be sure, and skim (or not if you
get it reasonably flush).
Presumably you mean the dark stuff and not the pink ;-)
Why?? The tiles will quite happily stay there by the adhesive gripping to
the surface of the wood and plaster either side of the battens. Why create
work for the sake of it? Also if the OP 'remembers' where they are he will
get a better fixing for bathroom accesories etc. I would leave them in.
The board will only get damp if the water is able to get through the tile
joints or via the edges .If you are troubled by that possibilty use a board
like Aquapanel by Knauf fitted on battens .There is loads of info on their
website .There are other alternatives like Hardibacker Board .
I do a lot of tiling in my work and come up against this problem
occasionaly, I would not recomend plasterboard as even waterproof
adhesive and grout ( apart from epoxy) will let water in over time
unless you tanked it all with a rubber solution which then might be ok.
I f you want to get it done quickly, I would recommend BAL Quick Set
cement a specialist product with no shrinkage problems which can be
tiled on after 24 hrs as opposed to ordinary cement or ordinary quick
drying cement. Otherwise go for plastering but if it is a large area
you should wait for a couple of weeks before plastering and don't
forget to use a primer. PS. I am allways coming across dodgy tiling
jobs where tilers have tiled on plasterboard and after a few years they
I'm a bit puzzled here? you say its wrong to tile over plasterboard
(Bearing in mind the PB has been skimmed) so if a client (you being a tiler
like) asked you to tile their bathroom how would you know the bathroom
walls havn't been PBoarded and skimmed?
Your talking crap.
Its the line he uses to persuade suckers they need to spend a fortune on
Its like the last plumber I had who assured me that the flow rate I wold
get on my showers was totally dependent on where the hot water tank was,
in a fully mains pressure system...
I have tiled all three of my bathrooms onto bare plasterboard. All are
fine and have no leaks at all after 4 years.
The last one - he 4th - I had to replaster after I installed a hidden
shower mixer. I tiled after 24 hours. Strengely, the tiles haven't
fallen off, and despite the fact its a shower whose wall gets drenched,
the plasterboard is till intact.
If the grout is as permeable as you make out, the plaster will dry out
that way won't it?
I guess thats what happens to 'professional plumbers' - the last one
nailed through a hot water pipe. Since then I haven't employed one.
I am perfectly capable of nailing through my own water pipes without
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.