Re: Question about wiring lights

I was finally able to get a set of 3- 2ft double bulb Flourescent

> lights. On plain bulb and one warm. > > They are the kind you have to wire yourself (they are meant for hard > wiring into the mains system). > > The connections seem simple as do the directions. However since the > directions are for direct hard wire connection.....my hubby thinks > wiring them to connect via a plug will not be so simple. I am > enclosing a link to the directions. Once in view click on it and it > should blow up to full size if you click again (in Netscape anyway). > > These were the least expensive (on sale 20% off at B&Q) and cheaper > than the ones that are already wired ( 4ft single battens with > diffusers -not useful). > > I know I am not stating my case very well but I am not so wise in the > way of electricity :-/ . > > Thanks > Julie > Any Question ask and I'll answer if I can. > > The link is for Mains "hard wiring" How would you adapt to wiring via > a fused plug in connection instead? > >
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Julie,

(1) Where are you planning to install these lights? From the instructions it is obvious that they are for use inside a house - and not in a bathroom in the house. Certainly not for inside a greenhouse which would probably blow away both the moisture and temperature constraints. (2) If you are installing them inside a house, why do you need a plug and socket instead of wiring them into the main lighting circuit? So you can only use in spring, and store for the rest of the year?

I have read your previous thread about lack of sunlight, which also implies lack of domestic lighting.

I am guessing that you are building some form of light box for use inside the house to bring on seedlings?

From reading the instructions posted, as long as you follow the fitting requirements i.e to a non-flammable, non-electrically-conductive surface and make sure that it is earthed then connecting to a plug (with a suitable fuse) should be fine.

I am a little concerned that because (I am presuming) they will be used for raising seedlings that they will be in a humid environment (which seedlings normally like) which may exceed the IP20 rating.

I have cross-posted this to uk.d-i-y for the serious electricians to cross check (please).

HTH Dave R

Reply to
David W.E. Roberts
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We have a heated outbuilding and I plan to use it out there.

I wanted a plug and socket so I can have more flexibility in adjusting height and also so they can be put away or moved as needed.

Yes I am making an open top light box with fan ventilation for seedlings.

The environment in which they will be used will not be too humid. The seedlings are well up and should not need to much and with the ventilation and the open top of the light box the Light fixture itself should not be exposed to excess

Thanks a bunch. If you need any other details Please let me know.

Cheers Julie

Reply to
Julie

and shared worries about using a light fitting designed for "normal" permanent ceiling installation.

Me, I wouldn't worry too much about the humidity - the fittings will run warm enough that condensation on them is most unlikely. You do need to make sure you have decent strain relief on the flex which connects into the light fitting - there isn't usually any provision for strain relief in tube fittings, so you may want to adapt something using a cable gland or similar (tightish cable ties would do at a pinch, though not really best practice!); but presumably you'll need an incoming feed which then splits or loops to both the fan and the lights, right? So more than one place to securely anchor the incoming mains lead.

Other thing to watch for is keeping ordinary PVC cable away from the hottest bits of the fitting, the "ballast" - you'll see when you open it up that the terminal block for the incoming wires is some few inches or more away from that, while the wires running to the ballast are usually wrapped in heat-resisting insulation. (If you're not sure which bit of the tube fitting will run hottest, connect it up temporarily and feel which bits got hot!). Keep your ordinary flex routed away from that part, and/or use a more heat-tolerant flex like the one used for immersion heaters...

If you're using this in a shed, you really want to be sure that the shed's power supply comes through an RCD...

Happy light-box building - Stefek

Reply to
stefek.zaba

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