Re-finishing teak.

Have a pair of speakers (80s) with that fairly standard teak veneer on ply which was very common once. Have a few scratches and some sun bleaching.

What would be the best way to make them look more presentable?

Would it be safe to power sand them with a random orbit sander using fine grade?

What would be the best finish - original was I'd say eggshell. Water based varnishes don't tend to darken it quite so much. So would oil based be better? Or would teak oil be easier?

Basically I'd like to get back to as near factory finish as possible - but don't expect them to look brand new. Nicely aged would be fine. Just not scratched. ;-)

Basically the tops are the worst for scratches. But I'd be worried that only doing the tops would stand out from the rest of the cabinet.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
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Probably, although the veneer may be quite thin, so you would need to be careful.

Something like liberon finishing oil can be quite nice - just wipe on a few coats, and it dries to a soft sheen. Its also easy to reapply and touch up later if you need to.

Alternatively one of the wipe on hard wax / oil combinations if you want a more durable finish. Some of the Osmo finishes give very nice low sheet non plasticky looking results.

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Reply to
John Rumm

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes

My speakers date back to 1974, and, over time, the teak suffered, particularly the tops, although no deep scratches. Just discolouration and water marks.

I rubbed down the tops with fine wire wool along the grain then applied Danish Oil. Not sure 'perfect' would be the description, but one hell of a lot better than they were. Could probably get closer to perfect with further applications.

A few years ago, I relieved my mother of some Ercol dining chairs bought by my parents, mid 60s. Over the years, they had become soiled, paint splattered and generally tatty, yet sound. Had them dipped which removed every trace of paint and original finish, but raised the grain. Many an hour with fine wire wool and, when smooth, multiple applications of Danish Oil got them as close to perfect as I'll ever achieve.

Reply to
News

That's what worries me. ;-) It is high quality 12mm birch ply, and looks to have been pre-veneered by the construction. Rather than the box made, then veneered.

That is very appealing. I'd prefer to use an oil or wax than a varnish. What would have been used originally?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Bolloms Briwax P7 is a pretty safe bet, but the original version if possible. Still the antique trade's standby I think

Reply to
Stuart Noble

I personally wouldn't want to risk going through the veneer.

And *I* would use "Renuwell Furniture restorer". It does work, is very little work, and it blends scratches and so on very well. "Nicely aged but not scratched" is the result I'd expect from it, and got on the 70's teak veneer speakers here:-)

Wipe on, wait, wipe off. A very little goes a long way, the 1/4 liter would do

50 or so speaker tops. (It seems to be a blend of white spirit and oils...)

If it's a recommendation: a lot of the used furniture dealers here have some on sale somewhere in back.

Ebay has it, "Renuwell Möbel Regenerator", and sellers that sell to the uk...

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Thomas Prufer

Reply to
Thomas Prufer

I took the plunge and used the random orbit sander. Then Danish oil. Very much better than before - but slightly too matt compared to the original. Should I just try some wax polish on top?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

My walnut Tannoys were oiled.

Reply to
Capitol

In which case the outer ply is usually a resonable thickness - that should sand ok.

Probably a cellulose lacquer or similar that can be sprayed on and dries fast.

Reply to
John Rumm

Something like Black Bison wax should add a little shine. You can apply it with 0000 wire wool if there is any roughness to the surface - that will smooth it out nicely. Leave it for a few mins and then buff with a soft cloth.

Reply to
John Rumm

Done just this - although I used a Colron wax that my local place had in stock - and it worked beautifully. You'd be hard pressed to see the difference in finish between the original lacquer or whatever on the other sides and the bits I've re-done. Thanks.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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