clangers email@example.com (Steve North) wrote in message
If you already have a suitable router then it is still cheaper than
paying someone to do the cuts. They quite often come up second hand on
ebay. Also there are cheaper new ones on ebay but I bought the Trend
one as it's a known reputable brand.
The instructions with the trend one are good. I would add keep the
cutter bit clean. Be prepared to use more than one new cutter for that
many joins (or maybe a better cutter will stay sharper longer?. Do a
couple of cuts with each new cutter and then do the bolt recesses with
the used cutters.
IMHO 45 deg cuts are fine but you waste more worktop as each piece has
to be long enough to reach into the corner. May not be an issue if you
have length to spare from a standard length worktop. You still need
some way to ensure you get the "same" 45 deg on each piece.
I would have thought the trick is to make one of the 45 deg cuts, and
then place the uncut bit into position in the corner and lay the cut bit
in position but on top of it, and use it to mark the exact cut angle
needed. This should automatically take into account any variation
intruduced by the corner not being perfectly square.
Depends on how far of square it is I suppose - a couple of degrees is
not going to make that much difference in the slant length of the cut.
Also any small discrepancy can be positioned at the back against the
wall where it will normally be obscured by the worktop to wall seal.
On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 05:08:16 +0100, John Rumm wrote:
I am used to dealing with my house which definitely isn't square :-)
One corner of my kitchen is around 5 degrees out of square, which if you
cut one of the bits of worktop with a straight 45deg cut would have that
diagonal cut 65mm longer than the other.
If it was 2 degrees out the difference woud still be 28mm.
On Mon, 29 Sep 2003 21:52:20 +0100, John Armstrong
You are technically correct. However a small discrepancy with the
angle on one side would most probably not cause a noteworthy problem.
The biggest issue here would be at the back edge of the worktop where
the two corner pieces meet - one would be longer than the other
causing a slight overhang - but as the rear edge of worktops is
invariably covered by tiling and similar wall covering that's not
normally a big problem to hide.
I recently acquired a 650mm Screwfix worktop jig. The thing I noted
fairly quickly was that it takes a little care to align the plastic
pins to the workpiece - if you apply pressure to the alignment then
the angle could change very, very slightly. I guess I was a bit
surprised that the alignment wasn't more precise in that respect.
I don't see that as a fault of the jig, most likely more of a feature
to enable you to offset the angle very slightly in the event you might
want to do so, to take account of angles between walls which aren't
precisely 90 degrees (and let's face it, few are).
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