RCDs and EICRs

As I understand them, AFDDs aren't fitted "as well as MCBs" like SPDs or RCDs are, they're "instead of MCBs" like RCBOs are ...

Not cheap

On 29/03/2021 20:09, ARW wrote: <snip>

Meanwhile there are landlords around here getting Code 2 on an EICR for that from CPS members. Not to mention mind-boggling quotes for fitting a like-for-like replacement.

If you want to pay a Kings Ransom the Acti9 Isobar P.

However my choice of CU is Hager and has been for many years.

They make nice kit.

Curve was Denmans rebadged stuff. Also known as Steeple.

It's Wylex AFAIK.

Ouch:

Thanks, that's what I've heard from others. I was a bit surprised to see Hager RCBOs some up second on sort by price at CEF, only a few pennies more expensive that the usual British General. Actually looks reasonable value for an RCBO board.

Theo

Aico slide on slide off with a small screwdriver.

Andy Burns did a CU price comparison a few months ago when someone asked a similar question.

A lot of YouTube posters are showing their CU replacements and using FuseBox CUs (trademark) in return for a free T shirt.

Andy showed that for just a few extra pounds you got the right kit.

Funnily enough, I actually replaced *all* of the interlinked smoke detectors in the rental house only last year just before lockdown as they had all expired on their 10 year dated stickers....

Screwfix still had teh same make and model of detectors in stock so a straight easy swap via the connector plugs...

Only trouble is now the battery in both the alarm panel and the external bell box now need replacing as it now alarms when there is a restoration of power after a power cut.

A new battery and bell box are winging its way to me.....

That is my biggest fear of tradespeople..... work/job "inflation" or "creation"

I'm more than capable and confident in replacing a consumer unit myself but the difficulty is that (a) I'm not Elecsa/Napit/Niceic registered so I would have to notify building control. They will then sent someone out to inspect my work..... and the council will charge me a fee....

So which is more cost effecitve or less hassle?

1. Get a sparky to do it all and they self-certify

or

1. Do it Myself and pay whatever fee the council want to charge me to inspect my work?

While on the topic, I have been wondering about the merits of putting the garage on a 11th RCBO via new SWA

and

Making provision for a car charging point should a future tenant want to bring their electric car? This would mean a 12th RCBO and SWA brought out to the driveway with a suitable terminating box so that this would be teh location of the new car charger.

(This is about making the rental house more desirable/marketable and taking the opportunity to update while changing the CU.)

Oh I see - as you say, I'm not sure anyone tests them. And I think his point is an invalid one, because MCBs don't protect against overheating in most cases even if working correctly.

You forget option 3. Fit it yourself and blame it on some sparky you can't remember the name of. Possibly contacted through Facebook. Oh, and don't tell anyone.

On one point above, SWA doesn't need an RCD. I would prefer to place the RCD in the garage for reasons of access.

YMMV of course.

Do you have the gear to install correctly (torque screwdriver) and do tests (RCD testing, impedance testing, not sure if insulation testing is needed if you have a recent EICR)?

Probably #1, although it depends on your council. Around here #2 is about £300, and of course the BCO is going to want to check everything before the power is turned on - a bit of a problem if there are people living there at the time, particularly if the BCO won't be precise about when they'll turn up.

If the BCO is going to want to see you doing impedance testing, you might as well pay someone to do it rather than paying the BCO to look over your shoulder.

Also if there isn't an isolator you'll need to coordinate with the DNO to pull their fuse (smart meters will phone home to the supplier if their power is removed, and in theory only the DNO can do that. In practice a lot of electricians get away with it. Are you aware of safe working procedures for that?).

Are you going to provide the car charger, or just enabling works for one? Would you expect the tenant to pay for the charger?

I suppose it depends on your target market. If it's a student HMO, perhaps not. If it's a million-pound mansion, maybe.

Although there will come a time where not having EV charging is a disadvantage, especially for rentals - I could imagine that showing up on property search sites sooner or later.

Theo

And in 5 years get a nice new EICR saying what a good job it was.

No.

Testing is currently carried out with no load. I think the behaviour of the MCB would be the arbiter of what happens in an over-current or fault condition.

Perhaps in future, as we have a number of different RCD characteristics, some cope with DC, others with HF currents etc, there is a chance that testing will require tests performed under these conditions?

Spot on as it will be cables buried in the wall less than 50mm from the surface.

Again it's an 18th edition reg that all circuits in the bathroom should have RCD protection. That was not required on the 16th (but bonding was)

It would be C2 if they do not fit correctly.

And there should have been another C3 for the lights not having RCD protection. Domestic lights now require RCD protection even if the cable is in trunking.

And unlike certain other manufactures their MCBs from old CUs fit the new ones and vice versa.

Lots of options.

Take an SWA supply to the garage with an CU from a MCB not a RCBO and having the RCD in the garage for the lights and sockets and leaving a non RCD way spare way in the garage for a future car charging point.

SWA from house CU to charging point from MCB.

The charger (if you do get one) will almost certainly have the correct RCD built into it and it in some case must not be fed from another RCD/RCBO as it may stop that RCD/RCBO from working.

This is where you have an advantage with a garage on a TT supply. Some car chargers need to be on a TT supply.

Thanks for not pointing out that it was a bloody stupid question. I was ignorant of how much a tester costs until I idly looked over coffee this morning.