The hole I drilled is too big (I actually drilled the right size hole but the back of the brick broke away).
I am considering filling the hole with epoxy resin and just letting the bolt set in it.
Any other suggestions?
16mm wide. 80mm deep.
I've had astounding success with screwfix resin anchors. Couldn't believe how strongly anchored the screwed rod was held.
car body flller is better and cheaper than epoxy
+1 in very crumbly sandstone supprting a heavy gate, though I used resin and M10 stainless studding. The resin was in a cartridge with a squirly-whirly mixing nozzle.
Cheers
Fill it with mortar. Get a biggish plate to put on the side with the hole and bolt right through. You haven't said whether it matters what it looks like or how strong it needs to be?
Is it likely to have any side to side variable load. I did this in an aerial bracket once and it fell off the wall taking half a brick with it! Brian
Basically that, but get some resin designed for the job for not much more
Don't forget to blow the hole well clear of dust (bit of pipe or a straw right to the back and a sharp puff)
I put up a lot of patio awnings. Some weight 50 kg and when extended the canvas area is up to 12 sq mtrs, so on a windy day they have to be bloody well anchored!
My rule of thumb is; if I can see the brick work (& therefore avoid the mortar joints, I use Lightning Bolts (similar to Multi Monte) or if rendered I use resin anchors.
Totally agree resin anchors are incredibly strong.
I use 10mm x 100mm Lightning Bolts & to tighten them fully you have to use a socket and a 15" breaker bar.
In message <q0is9c$b6a$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, The Natural Philosopher snipped-for-privacy@invalid.invalid writes
It is cheaper, but in what way better?
It certainly doesn't bond to a lot of the materials I work with, although I can't say I've ever thought of using it with brick or stone.
I was going to say polyester resin too. Welcome back, BTW.
Any other plastic resin would be good.
NT
Isn't it for having equality and diversity awareness training meetings in?
Owain
That's not a girder as such, but more like a piece of 2x2 square tubing?
Unlike epoxy it is not necessary that two identical quantites are perfectly mixed. So it is far less easy to end up with a soft and partially unset result.
It is much faster to set. And when half set is very easy to drill pilot holes in
Really? I have never found anything that epoxy bonds to that polyester resin will not. Neither bonds well to smooth olefins (polythene) or waxes but otherwise both stick to most things.
I've used it with both to great effect.
- bonding a wood window cill to the top of a brick internal wall
- to hold down marble worktops.
- to repair a chunk of render that fell out of a high stress point of a wall.
I have found it to be in every way better than epoxy for nearly all applications.
The only time I use epoxy is for repairing china or earthenware (milliput), and occasionally with glass fibre, where it is more flexible as it comes without the filler that car body filler has... Yes I could buy glassing resin and filler but...
And it's not behind the brickwork!
The girder is enclosed by brickwork pillars. As for important it holds up the roof.
It is designed to sit on the floor.
I tend to use liquid resin and hardener, using syringes to measure quantities, and then add fillers as required. "Proper" fillers include milled wood fibres, colloidal silica or glass or resin micro bubbles, but I've used whatever is to hand eg sawdust, glass fibre tape or mat and so on. The usual technique is to soak whatever wants to be joined so the resin soaks in and then when it starts to set add the filler loaded mix if there is a large gap to be filled. I've often used portable worklights or big torches to control speed of setting. Nothing modern like led lamps here.
I've got a feeling it was on uk.d-i-y that I read that epoxy has smaller molecules than polyester resins and so soaks into things better.
I have seen many plywood boats repaired with polyester resin, where the resin has come off in sheets. The replacement epoxy was still fine on our GP14 when I gave it away last year. I used epoxy on the hinges of my Keter plastic shed that were smashed when the door blew open in the wind. Not sure what plastic it's made of, but it has worked well.
Anyway, that's all very interesting. We still have to relocate the top hinge on our rebuilt gatepost that I posted about here. The errant builder seems to have gone to ground, so I am waiting for two young family members to do the job with me. They came and looked but felt the weight of the gate and decided it was Christmas.
If using liquid resin and hardener you are NOT using epoxy. Just the car body filler minus the filler!
Sinds like bad application
Well eopxy OR polyester resin loaded with sand will work to plug old holes
Whips?
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