Radiotor not functioning right ?

Bit of a odd problem basically I have central heating. The radiator in the bathroom on heats up half way and the rest of it is stone cold. Both valves are on open and all the other heaters in the house work.
Any ideas what might be up with it ?
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James wrote:

Could the top of this radiator be the highest in the house? Have you tried the small valve at the top to release air?
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The radiator is in the bottom of the house (downstairs) bathroom. Is this valve the hex nut type looking thingy :) on the right hand side. There is something that looks like that can I safely open this without water shooting out ?
Does the heating need to bt on or off to push the air out ?
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Addtion note:
Right so have just done 10 mins of googling, and it seems I need a bleeding key :) (I think I have one somewhere ... always wondered what is was for lol)
So please correct me if I am wrong:
1- turn off heating
2 - open both valves at bottom of radiator
3 - open bleed screw half a turn till you hear hissing and then water dribbling out, then tighten up
4 - Do the rest of the heaters in the house ? (not sure if I need to do all the others as they all work) but the guide said to?
5 - I may need to repressurize the system ... This bit I'm not sure about ... How wold I do that ? ( I have a combi type boiler)
6 - Thank god I didn't blow the damn thing up
7 - receive praise from wife for not being completely useless at home maintenance ? wishful thinking... I think so
8 - crack beer open and pat my self on the back if I haven't scolded my hand
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Yes
They should already be open or the rad would be cold all over all the time.

Yes. Use a cloth to stop spillages

Yes, do them.

http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
God prefers a capital letter in his name. I do not thank him for anything, as do millions of Muslims etc

Make her praise you.

If you wish. You should ask the wife to open your beer after such a days hard DIY.
Adam
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

Yes, it's half full of air, and needs to be bled.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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wrote:

Actually more likely to be half full of hydrogen...
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

Either way, bleeding it will fix the immediate problem - but additional measures (like adding inhibitor to the system) will be necessary if it *is* hydrogen.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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wrote:

Hydrogen? it gets filled with hot water from the central heating I believe .. no expert though ..
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James wrote:

Indeed, and if you break H2O down into its component parts by electrolysis (i.e. galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals using the water as an electrolyte), you get...?
One test is to attempt to light the gas that you bleed. If it burns then you know you have a hydrogen mix that indicates lack of corrosion inhibitor.
--
Cheers,

John.

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wrote:

It shows.
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wrote:

Very helpful.
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

As others have said, if corrosion occurs due to a lack of corrosion inhibitor, hydrogen is produced from the chemical reaction, and tends to collect in the top of a radiator. But, for the time being, just bleed it out and then, if necessary, re-pressurise the system using the filling loop. That might fix it, but if the air/hydrogen keeps coming back, you need to investigate further.
Have you worked out how to bleed it now? The bit you need to loosen is the bleed screw, which has a square head about 5mm across. If that's contained in a larger hex fitting, *don't* undo the whole thing - you'll have a flood!
Do you know whether there *is* any inhibitor in your system?
--
Cheers,
Roger
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wrote:

Hi Roger,
Appreciate the post.
Yip all done, very easy. Did all the radiator. The radiator in question is now working correctly. If the problem persists I'll get a professional to investigate it further.
There is no inhibitor on my system which I guess is my next port of call.
Thanks for all the help and info guys girls and everything inbetween that :-p
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writes

see <http://www.fernox.com/index.php?cccpage=products Central Heating Protectors.
--
Si

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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

Slightly puzzled by your phrase "there is no inhibitor *on* my system". Inhibitor isn't a device attached to the system - it's a liquid mixed with the water circulating in your system to prevent corrosion from occurring. Do you *know* that none was put in when the system was commissioned?
--
Cheers,
Roger
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wrote:

Slightly muddled my response there.
I have no idea if any was added.
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If there is fresh water in the system it can take a few weeks and a few bleeding sessions before it won't need bleeding again.
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wrote:

Ahh how did ait get into a sealed system ?
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James wrote:

A number of ways...
There is a fair amount dissolved in the water you fill it with in the first place - it takes a few days for that to all come out of suspension usually after the system is filled.
Corrosion can manufacture gas as previously mentioned, and surprisingly small leaks in the system can allow air in.
--
Cheers,

John.

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