PVC door wont open / unlock

Just needs a new cylinder to lock it with :-)

I thought you snapped the euro lock? What stops a scrote now opening it & gaining access?

Its a door that is rarely used so not urgent. Tried to unlock it and key would only turn about a quarter then jam. tried all sorts of jiggling and a bit of force....no joy. Next I tried snapping the lock, I wouldnt make a good housebreaker as it took me an hour.

I am aware that it is the cam on the euro cylinder that operates the mechanism and I used the cam on the end of a screwdriver but again a partial turn and stop!

I have come to the conclusion that something in the door locking mechanism has broken or jammed and was nothing to do with the euro lock.

My problem is the door is in locked mode so currently cannot access the lock mechanism, within the `keyhole` I can see a metal piece that I suspect the key cam would engage, but it wont budge.(it is difficult to see properly)

So looks like I need to attempt to unscrew the hinges and hope I can get the door off. (when the weather is better)

Any thoughts or ideas on this.

The local scrotes tend to use stolen JCBs

We had (something) like this happen- I say something like this, the symptoms sound similar.

In our case, once we managed to gain access (a long story), I was able to open unlock the door from the other side (inside) without an issue. From the outside, it was still broken. Then, we just called the installers as it was still under warranty and they replaced the eurolock and perhaps other parts (I wasn't there when the work was done).

Fortunately this is a 3rd side entrance door that we never use, but definately not the euro lock as I have got that out. I am sure that whatever the euro cam operates has broken or jammed but cant access that part unless I get the door off :-(

The trouble is, the eurolock operates a vertical bar within the door frame that then operates two or more locking points. Even if the bars are steel (perhaps cadmium plated) they may be sliding against aluminium, this can lead to high friction. Hinge fittings are normally concealed but you can remove the entire pin with an angle grinder which is at least short of the JCB option that someone else suggested. Alternatively, you can try to lubricate the sticking points with an aerosol oil spray such as WD-40. If you have another similar door that you can look at, you may be able to guess where the sticking points might be. Then, you could drill small-ish holes (say 3-6 mm dia) in the inside face of the door stile, and liberally spray the insides with WD-40. If you can still apply forces to the vertical bar you may be able to sense when you are starting to get it to move.

This can be fairly extreme DIY, but if you like a challenge it may be cheaper and more satisfying than "getting a man in".

It will be a big help if you have a similar (openable) door to look at to try to understand how it works.

FWIW I've just had something very similar here - except it is the lock*. Maybe the lock needs a bit more 'engagement' on the cam than it/you are giving? Mine has always had a slight quirk - the handle needs lifting a little extra to engage lock/unlock. Dunno. Anyway, a bit of sacrificial WD40 into the lock mechanism and it turned.

• Yale branded bought on ebay, came in what seemed to be Yale box with Yale marked keys. But I think it could be a fake, if only because it's always felt less smooth than an identical lock on another door, and it lets draughts through the 'key hole' (the other doesn't).

Yes I have a similar door but will probably wait until the weather is a bit better. I have a back & front door but for some reason the previous owners built a porch at the side with another door on it....never use it and I doubt if they did either.

I have plenty of spare euro locks from the time I was in to lock picking as a hobby. Interestingly enough when the key would only turn approx a quarter turn thinking it was maybe the key I did manage to pick it with the same result. Thats when I decided it was not the euro lock that was the problem.

I don't know if you can drill the lock out. You can get abrasive drill bits that go on angle grinders.

Hinges might be unscrewable, but if it's a multipoint lock, as it likely is, you might find the locking hooks are engaged regardless.

If replacing the door becomes the only option, of course one can cut the door plastic away to get to the mechanism. Not the cheap way to do things though.

I've not tried this - don't know if you can cut out around the lock then fit a plastic/wood etc block to take a replacement lock, and add push plates to cover it all.

NT

On the plastic door I have, it is lowering the door handle that would move the vertical bar that opens the locks. To lock the door you have to raise the handle, only if this is done properly can you turn the key in the Euro lock.

Don't forget that you can't turn the key unless you've fully turned the handle to the open position. If you haven't used the door for some time I suspect the handle isn't fully open. I find opening and closing the handle with a full thwack against its end stops helps.

Yes I have 2 other doors with similar mechanism and I did do a fair bit of thumping before I remove the euro lock. With the lock removed I should have been able to use say an allan key to replicate what the euro cam would have done but again that is jamming and not turning fully.

You were trying to use minimal force to avoid damaging the rest of the mechanism/door, a "proper" burglar wouldn't give a toss and would give it maximum violence ...

You are probably correct although I was thumping it with a hammer in the end.

Is it one of those multi point lock systems where it has either plungers all around or sliding pieces that engage in fittings on the frame. These have a nasty habit of getting stuck if not moved for some time. I fear that by breaking the lock you have made things a lot worse. Brian

Or a blowtorch. Brian

I'd imagine you've got a decent anti-snap cylinder. Took me about 5 seconds to break a branded bottom of range - there was a couple of mm sticking out to get the grips on, though.