Push fit plumbing - any good?

Yes, oh dear, you loose the argument and are proved to be in the wrong so what do you do, you enter into personal abuse about something you have not one clue about....

In message , Aidan writes

... ...

Let's face it, you're not going to fit into Uk-diy are you ?

You've posted nothing of significance and spend most of your time bitching

Why not concentrate your efforts on this moderated group you were so keen on?

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In message , Aidan writes

Definitely, I'm a major contributor to the noise in uk-diy

Byee

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Correction. There was no misleading information, and no mistake was made in the context of the question asked. The question was a fairly simple one that did not require a detailed response on the design and implementation of all the components and safety devices, and the answer that I gave was perfectly adequate for the purpose of answering the question.

Had the request been for a detailed design for DIY implementation of a pressurised HW cylinder, then the answer would have been that it is not a DIY job as I am sure you are aware.

The reality is that you decided that you wanted to make an issue over the content of a newsgroup and medium about which you knew very little. When the nature of this NG and Usenet was pointed out to you you decided to attempt to pick holes in the first post that you could find that you possibly might know something about.

Your argument on this was very weak from the outset, because you attempted to make an issue out of something that was irrelevant to the total context of the question.

You could, of course have chosen to present a complete design and description for a pressurised HW system. It wouldn't have been original, but might have been useful up to a point.

In doing so, you have continued to demonstrate a lack of understanding of how newsgroups work and particularly this one.

.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Yup. Spot on pet. Now f*ck off.

If your going to install a new central heating system, can you answe my questions? Pleeeeeease?

1. The pipe work for the rads leaves the boiler in 22mm and the reduces to 15mm pipe. Is there a set distance where the reducer has t go or can it go anywhere.
2. Do you do one floor of rads and then go upstairs, or can you com out of the boiler then T off and do both floors at the same time.
3. If you do a floor at a time do you do upstairs or down stair first.
4. 1 side of each rad has a TRV, does it go on the flow or the return.

Thanks Dave!

Wil

-- Will

Depends on the flow rate, usually it would reduce where it splits to upstairs & downstairs, the 22mm flow pipe might have a 15mm branch to one floor and continue in 15mm to the other.

Both floors are piped parallel, look at a book.

Usually on the flow, but with recent TRVs it's not so important because they will work with flow going in either direction. The old TRVs would make banging noises if piped the wrong way around.

See my answer to this in the other thread.

There are no hard and fast rules. However some things to consider...

One solution is to run the backbone under the upstairs floor, and then simply tee off this in 15mm up to the upstairs rads, and down to the downstairs. This will suit smaller properties and also ones where the downstairs floor is solid.

With a larger property you may find it worthwhile to allow for the option of "zoning" the heating. Here you would lay in separate flow and return pipe backbones for each floor. Rads would be strung between the backbones as before. Both feeds are split from the single boiler feed, and both returns are combined into the single return. Each leg after the split has a zone valve installed which is controlled by its own dedicated programmable thermostat - one upstairs, and one down. The "call for heat" outputs from each of the zone valves are then combined before being taken back to the boiler. That way you have independent control of the heating on each floor. You may choose to keep the upstairs cooler for some parts of the day etc.

You can have as many zones as makes sense for your property. The split that makes sense for you may not be "upstairs / downstairs", but could be some other combination of rooms that share common usage patterns.

Yes! i.e. if you are doing two floors as a single zone, then you do whichever makes most sense from a pipe routing point of view. It may come down to something as simple as where the flow and return pipes connect to the boiler, and whether it is floor standing or wall hung.

Try to keep them on the flow sides. Most modern valves ought to work on either side, but I have noticed that you can still get more noise from them on the return side... (whistles etc, as they begin to close down)