"The point was that it is you who is the newcomer into the room........"
That is a red herring, i.e., it is irrelevant. The relevant point is that this is still a DIY discussion room.
I've been reading posts here for about a year and posting occasionally probably for about 6 months. You lot may have been posting here longer, but that does not give you squatters' rights of ownership. You consistently ruin many threads.
"and DIMM baiting falls in that category." If IMM baiting occupied a small proportion of the posts, then I wouldn't care. It has completely taken over too many of the posts, to the detriment of the group/site.
"Then I would suggest that you go and look at manufacturer's data sheets."
No, I had hoped to read peoples' opinions and experiences. Like the plastic inserts on Speedfit restricting the pipe bore and imposing a significant hydraulic resistance. Or the suitability of Speedfit Pex/Al/Pex on domestic softened water systems. Things like that, the possible points of weakness in their systems that manufacturers don't mention.
"If you actually read the whole thread and the question asked???" "He clearly stated that he was going to use a plumber and not DIY the job" "I take a great deal of care with what I write on subjects like this, and if I am in any doubt as to the circumstances of the question, I cover possible dangers very carefully." "If you are going to try to pick holes in what is written, at least take the trouble to research it properly first, rather than making a fool of yourself."
Your reply to the OP was; "Then have the cylinder installed with the coil fed via a diverter valve or zone valves from the CH circuit. The valve(s) would need to be fitted before the first radiator and a thermostat for the cylinder added, but that is broadly it."
That is broadly wrong. Oh, dear.
You could not legally use a diverter valve unless the cylinder also has a zone valve. Alternatively, you'd need two zone valves (DHWS & HTG), a simpler arrangement. The primary and secondary resettable thermostats required should come with the unvented cylinder. You'd probably also need a new 2-channel programmer. Just see the Honeywell web-site for a diagram. If I contradicted what you had written, it was because it was misleading. You should have taken the trouble to research it properly, rather than have made yourself look foolish. It was fortunate that a newbie around to correct the OP. But then this site exists for your mutual admiration, doesn't it, not for DIY information, so that's OK.
If the OP employed a plumber, it would not follow that the plumber had passed the recommended training course. Even if he had, it would not follow that he would do the job correctly. There are just too many knuckle-draggers in the heating trade. The two-port zone valve usually comes loose and often ends up in the back of a plumber's van. I've seen it happen.
"the signal to noise ratio in this group is actually quite good" And you are generating most of the noise. Do you read any of the stuff you post here? Choosing a few random quotes;
"Well said Maxie!" "IS your name DIMM ? no? Should be OK then" "Where's DIMM, has he broken his hacksaw blade or what?" "Probably runs on Windows 3.1 and still booting up for the month."
Does it mean anything? Do you think anyone, anywhere wants to read it? Why don't you all just e-mail it to each other? Nobody else is interested in it.
"We're not going to change just for you"
"Finish it. I really do wish you would." I have. You lot really are boring.
Finish it. Unfortunately, you won't.
Finish it.